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Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe Valjoux, sporty and sculptured timepieces
True to the principles of the Pontos collection, the new Pontos Chronographe plays the game with no need for time out. Its pure-bred style suffers no compromise. With its sporty, sculptured lines, this watch is designed to show off its distinctive features. Contemporary in style, the blue dial highlights the chronograph functions and gives substance to its overall proportions. Powered by precision mechanics, this watch is aimed at those who appreciate sportsmanship and design.
A variation on the Pontos Chronographe series launched in 2004, the Pontos Chronographe timepieces are operated by an automatic movement based on the Valjoux 7750 caliber, renowned for its performance and reliability. It is fitted with a chronograph featuring 30-minute and 12-hour counters, and the small seconds and date apertures are at 9 and 6 o’clock respectively, creating a beautifully balanced display of the time data.
The steely blue color of the sun-brushed finished dial confirms its high quality and pedigree. To achieve optimum legibility, the applied index markers and hands have a luminescent coating. The steel case features skilfully designed push-pieces that retract into the case middle, while the case back opens fully to reveal the beauty of the mechanism inside. Available with a bracelet or leather strap, the new Maurice Lacroix chronograph is an utterly reliable master of short time measurement.
Movement – Personalized Valjoux 7750 caliber, with guaranteed quality and precision. Self-winding caliber ML112 based on the Valjoux 7750 movement. Frequency – 28,800 vibrations/h, 4 Hz. Power reserve – 46 hours. Jewels – 25. Adjustments – 3 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours. Decoration – Rhodium-plated movement, decorated by hand: circular-grained with Côtes de Genève.
Functions – Hours and minutes indicated by central hands. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. Chronograph seconds indicated by a central hand. 30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o’clock. 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock. Date indicated in an aperture at 6 o’clock.
Case – Ø 43 mm, steel case. Refined finishing, combining polished and brushed surfaces. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Screwed case-back with large sapphire crystal. Large Ø 7 mm crown with radial pattern for optimum handling. Unique pushers featuring a tip-over device with horizontally brushed finishes and polished facets. Water-resistant to 50 m / 5 atm.
Dial – Available in Blue color with silver counters. Pure, simple design highlighted by the sun-brushed finishing on the base. Snailed counters. Applied counter rings featuring a play on brushed and snailed finishing. Diamond-cut, faceted applied hour-markers.
Hands and Discs – Diamond-cut, faceted, rhodium-plated hands, with “BGW9” Superluminova (blue lume).
Strap/Bracelet – Crocodile-skin (Crocodylus niloticus) strap with large scales, calfskin lining and matching stitching.
Metal Bracelet – 5-row bracelet for superior comfort. Alternation of vertical-brushed and polished finishing. Folding clasp with push-pieces.
Folding Clasp – Steel folding clasp with pushers and pinch system. Brushed finishing.
Source: Maurice Lacroix
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Richard Mille RM 026 Tourbillon, timepiece in limited edition
Tonneau case – Limited edition: 15 unique pieces, 18k white gold gem-set case.
Caliber RM026 – Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and power reserve, inspired by the RM 019.
Dimensions – 45 mm x 39.70 mm x 12,60 mm.
Main features
(Many of which are major technical innovations)
Power reserve
Circa 48 hours. This function is displayed using a newly designed differential power reserve system, with a printed red line on a moving disc located between 10 and 11 o’clock.
Movement
Two creatures adorn its precious movement, writhing and searching within the tourbillon movement, whilst simultaneously holding the precious tourbillon movement in place.
We can admire a ruby & diamond encrusted 18k white gold snake and an emerald & diamond encrusted 18k white gold snake with red coral tongue. But there are several other versions available of these coupled snakes, such as precious stones encrusted or semi-precious stones encrusted, or engraved stones, and even enameled bodies.
Each model is an unique piece.
It took many hours and extremely precise work to engrave by hand the scales of these two exceptional jewellery pieces.
Serpents in mythology have complex roles that can be either good or evil. In connection with the positive properties of Black Onyx they however take on a protective role, representing the potent guardians of temples and other sacred places. Thus, they are natural guardians of treasures or sacred sites that are intimate and require protection.
Black onyx baseplate
Onyx is a variety of cryptocrystalline quartz chalcedony composed of silicium dioxide, (SiO2). The rectilinear black and white parallel stripes version is part of the agate types. The fully black type is called Black Onyx, and is said to be able to deflect harmful energy down to the earth, while providing stability. For this reason, Black Onyx is considered as a charm-stone against spells. Black Onyx also symbolizes equilibrium and inspiration.
Bridges made of titanium
These components in grade 5 titanium with black PVD treatment. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.
Variable inertia, free sprung balance
The free-sprung balance provides better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly. It also guarantees better chronometric results over an extended period of time.
Ceramic endstone for the tourbillon cage
This reflects a technical and long-term view towards the elimination of wear phenomena, resulting in improved technical tribology.
Torque limiting crown
This additional security system prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or putting extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel. The crown is set with precious stones or semi-precious stones depending on the version.
Barrel pawl with progressive recoil
This device permits a profitable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the winding start. It is also helpful in the distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
Other features
Movement dimensions – 30.20 mm x 28.60 mm.
Thickness – 4.97 mm.
Tourbillon diameter – 12.30 mm.
Balance wheel diameter – 9.12 mm.
Number of jewels – 21.
Balance – Glucydur, 2 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 10 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º.
Frequency – 21,600 vph (3 Hz).
Balance spring – Elinvar by NIVAROX.
Shock protection – KIF Elastor KE 160 B28.
Stone setting in white gold.
Barrel shaft in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless- antimagnetic- suitable for tempering.
Case
In the world of horology, the case of Richard Mille watches is currently considered as the most difficult to manufacture. This tripartite tonneau-shaped case is fully curved, which enables the watch to be ergonomic and comfortable but is time consuming during its production and requires a high level of quality control. These front and back curves are part of the Richard Mille watch case regardless of their shapes (tonneau, round, rectangular). They demand ultimate precision and no stress in the metal. The bezel side and the case back have to be perfectly assembled in the case middle with no constraints, to prevent the sapphires from any damage. These manufacturing specifications required one year of research and development.
The specific tonneau shape of the RM 026 requires 47 stamping operations including 21 for the forming. Tooling takes 4 hours and the RM 026 is obtained after 255 milling operations. The finishing process requires a full day for grinding, glazing and polishing.
The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
On certain models of the RM 026, the bezel, middle case and back are set with precious stones following the harmony of the two coupled snakes embracing the movement.
Interior flanges
Upper flange in black carbon fiber, with the hours index set with diamonds. Lower flange in black carbon fiber. with the minutes index in white color.
Crystal
Bezel side – In sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness – 1.20 mm.
Case back – In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness – At the center 1 mm and outer edges 1.73 mm.
Finishing
Movement
Anglage and polishing by hand (excluding Onyx and black treated parts).
Locking sections hand polished.
Sapphire blasted milled sections.
Lapped and polished contact points.
Burnished pivots.
PVD treatment (excluding Onyx).
Steel parts
Sapphire blasted surfaces.
Satin finished surfaces.
Anglage and polishing by hand.
Burnished sections.
Gear wheels
Concave chamfering with a diamond tool.
Circular finished faces.
Surface treatment or rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth).
Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Source: Richard Mille
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Rado D-Star Basel Special 2011, sporty chic and modern timepiece in limited edition
Rado, the pioneering Swiss watchmaker, is paying tribute to its heritage, the first scratchresistant watch in the world – the DiaStar. In line with its quest for constant innovation, the company reveals the Rado D-Star Basel Special 2011, a sporty, chic and modern timepiece that delivers accuracy on every level.
A fusion of two materials
Combining high-tech ceramics with rubber, Rado has chosen two materials to reflect sport and design. Using a high-tech material for a sharp faceted ellipse case and for the clasp, Rado proves once again its undisputed knowledge of material and leadership in the high-tech industry. The black matt rubber bracelet is entirely integrated to the structured case which shows the high quality finishing usual to Rado watches.
Sportive precision in design
The Rado D-Star Basel Special has everything required for optimum performance without compromising on design. The unusually thin chronograph movement along with the tachymeter provide meticulous precision in a humble case. With its wide opening, the features of the dial are clear and simple to read. The date falls neatly into place at four thirty, carefully not overlapping the three counters. Superluminova enhances and intensifies the shape and colour of the white skeleton hands, red second hand and triangular indexes.
The Rado D-Star Basel Special, an automatic timepiece taking an icon into a new dimension.
1111 pieces – Limited Edition.
Source: Rado
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Armin Strom Marazzi Regulator, exclusive watch
For both of them, the focus is on precision – Armin Strom, the exclusive watch manufacturer from Biel and the successful Marazzi Sailing team from Berne are to become partners for the run-up to the 2012 Olympic Games.
The exclusive watch brand Armin Strom is to become the official partner of Marazzi Sailing. The aim of the cooperation is to raise the awareness of both brands at an international level.
To mark this cooperation, Armin Strom will be developing a limited exclusive line of watches. The bridges of the Armin Strom manufactured calibre are to be made from the original material of a Star boat.
Flavio Marazzi commented: “Innovation, strength of purpose, pioneer spirit, the typically Swiss characteristics of fairness, reliability and precision – Armin Strom and the Marazzi Sailing Team are well-suited because they stand for the same values.”
Limited Edition of 12 pieces.
Movement – Armin Strom calibre ASR07. Mechanical hand-winding movement with out of centre indications and retrograde date. Jewels 24. Power reserve – 46 hours.
Case – Brushed titanium PVD black. Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment. Diameter 43.60 mm. Total height 14.70 mm. Water-resistance – 50 m.
Dial – Black / deep blue.
Hands – Stainless Steel.
Strap – Rubber strap in black with titanium PVD black buckle.
Source: Armin Strom
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Bremont P-51, chronograph chronometer in limited edition
Following on from the great success and interest generated by the arrival of the very special and unique EP120 Limited Edition watch back in late 2008, Bremont are releasing the Limited Edition ‘Bremont P-51’, a chronograph chronometer built with original parts from the famous 1944 Mustang WWII aircraft P-51K-10 (serial number 44-12016), a Pacific war veteran also known as ‘Fragile but Agile’.
Original aluminium metal from the aircraft fuselage is integrated into both the dial and the movement of the timepiece; with the dial itself inspired by the clocks found in the P-51 aircraft. The 43mm hardened steel Trip-Tick® case, using Bremont’s B-EBE2000 technology, integrates the new rotating ‘Roto-Click®’ inner bezel that houses four ball-bearings inside the case. As with many of Bremont’s latest watch designs, the P-51 is assembled the company’s atelier in England rather than their workshop in Biel-Bienne in Switzerland, and houses a modified Swiss BE-54A automatic chronometer movement that also shows UTC time. The watch will be limited to only 251 pieces. The watch is to be unveiled at Basel 2011 and released in the autumn.
P-51K-10 (serial number 44-12016) rolled off the North American Aviation assembly line in Dallas, Texas, on 18 December 1944 and was then loaded on to a ship on the 15th January 1945 for an assignment in the Far East. It was to take part in the American campaign to retake the Philippine Islands from the Japanese. On arrival in the Pacific Theatre of Operations, the aircraft was assigned to the 342nd Fighter Squadron of the 348th Fighter Group, which then was stationed at the San Marcelino airbase, just north of Manila Bay. Lt. Bert Lee Jr. was assigned to fly the aircraft and was credited with two confirmed victories during the war, which accounts for the two Japanese flags painted below his name on the plane. One was a Japanese A6M “Zero” fighter near Manila and the other a twin-engine “Betty” bomber. A lot of Lt. Lee’s missions in the P-51 were ground support in what was then Indochina.
Lee and his Mustang both survived the war. Following its time in the US Air Force, ‘Fragile but Agile’ then spent time serving with both the Swedish and Israeli military before eventually being restored by pilot and collector Stephen Grey and The Fighter Collection based at Duxford in the UK. In 2009 the Mustang was acquired by another collector and good friend of Stephen’s – Dan Friedkin, based in Houston, Texas.
Movement – Modified calibre 13 1/4″ BE-54AE automatic chronometer. 25 jewels. Glucydur balance. Anachron balance spring. Nivaflex 1 mainspiring. 28,800bph. 42 hour power reserve. Hand-crafted aluminum rotor from 44-12016 skin.
Functions – Hour/minute/second, date at 4H, chronograph with seconds and 30 minutes, 24 hour UTC hand.
Case – Hardened stainless steel Bremont Trip Tick® construction with scratch resistant PVD treated case barrel. Case diameter 43.00 mm, lug width 22.00 mm, case thickness 16.00 mm.
Case Back – Stainless steel with integrated flat crystal, 5 stainless steel screws with polished heads.
Bezel – Internally rotating bezel operated by crown at 8H with Bremont Roto-Click® technology.
Dial – Metal dial with various ground colours with integrated aluminum sub-dial from 44-12016 skin. Coated nickel hands with bespoke SuperLumiNova®.
Crystal – Domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal.
Water-resistant – 10 ATM, 100 metres.
Ratings – C.O.S.C chronometer tested.
Bracelet – Tanned embossed calf-skin leather strap with stainless steel solid deployment buckle and engraved security clasp.
Source: Bremont
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Self-Winding Flying Tourbillon, spirit of the avant-garde
The Excalibur collection captures the spirit of avant-garde Fine Watchmaking that defines Manufacture Roger Dubuis, to the point that it is now an icon of the brand. With its powerful design and superlative mechanical movement, the Excalibur Self-Winding Flying Tourbillon with micro-rotor in white gold continues in this vein.
Its imposing 45mm diameter leaves no doubt that this is a watch with character. With its frank lines, robust crown-cover and signature indented bezel, the Excalibur Self-Winding Flying Tourbillon completes a line already rich in exceptional movements.
This Excalibur model incorporates the Calibre RD520, a self-winding flying tourbillon movement with visible micro-rotor. This spectacular movement, which offers a new degree of exposure to this type of complication, has been designed, developed and produced by Manufacture Roger Dubuis. Rhodium-plated with Côtes de Genève decoration and assembling 227 components, the Calibre RD520 is hallmarked with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. It proposes hour and minute functions, and the tourbillon can be seen in an aperture at 7 o’clock.
Water-resistant to 5 BAR (50 metres), this Excalibur Self-Winding Flying Tourbillon with micro-rotor in white gold is presented on a black alligator strap with an adjustable folding buckle, also in white gold.
This exceptional timepiece is proposed as a limited edition of 88.
Movement – Calibre RD520. Mechanical self-winding movement by a micro-rotor , 15’’’, 30 jewels, fine adjustment in six positions, rhodium-plated, “Côtes de Genève” motif. Poinçon de Genève. Tourbillon carriage shaped like a Celtic cross. Number of parts – 227. Thickness – 6.5 mm. Frequency – 3 Hz (21,600 vph). Power reserve – 60 hours.
Functions – Hours and minutes at the centre, small seconds on the tourbillon.
Case – Round, 45 mm, white gold.
Dial – Charcoal satined sunburst background. White transferred roman numerals. Black onyx plates. Tourbillon aperture at 7 o’clock. Micro-rotor aperture at 10 o’clock. White gold fillets. Black bottom flange. Black top flange. White transfer. White gold appliques.
Water-resistant – To 5 BAR (50 metres).
Strap – Fully adjustable black strap, genuine alligator, hand-stitched.
Clasp – White gold adjustable folding buckle.
Source: Roger Dubuis
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Louis Moinet Astralis, spectacular Chronograph in limited edition
Astralis is an innovative watch unlike any other. Its extremely high level of technical sophistication is highlighted by a legendary mechanism stemming from an authentic passion for fine watchmaking. Astralis features an exclusive and unprecedented alliance of complications: an astral Tourbillon, a split-second column-wheel Chronograph, as well as a 24-hour Planetarium displaying four meteorites boasting unique rarity.
Rarity
The sheer complexity of Astralis necessarily implies restricted production. Astralis is a limited edition of 12 watches, each of which calls for extreme attention and considerable assembly time.
An exceptional case
The Astralis case is crafted in the warm shades of 18-carat rose gold 5N, and its polished finish lends it a distinctive glow. This highly complex case involves the manufacture of 50 different elements that are then meticulously assembled. The technical feats involved include the unique interchangeable crown tube system for which an invention patent has been filed.
In order to ensure the purest possible design, Astralis features an ergonomic approach to the split-second function which is integrated within the crown, while the bezel secured with six screws radiates a strong presence and facets that are softened by the work of the master polisher.
An authentic Louis Moinet
Astralis comprises the distinctive characteristics of the Louis Moinet universe: the dial with its dedicated “Côtes du Jura”® motif, the “Gouttes de Rosée” (“dewdrop”) hands, and the brand’s signature case structure. It also features some subtle philosophical nods such as the split-second hand adorned with a shooting star, or the pushers adorned with a wind rose.
Astralis is fitted with a hand-sewn strap in Louisiana alligator leather lined with crocodile leather to ensure a perfectly comfortable feel on the wrist. The double folding clasp is made from 18-carat rose gold and grade 5 titanium with a PVD finish. It is delivered in the famous Louis Moinet presentation box evoking the Traité d’Horlogerie (watchmaking treatise) written by the master-watchmaker in 1848, and which remains an enduring reference work in the field of horology.
Split-second column-wheel chronograph
The spectacular split-second mechanism is highlighted in an original way. The column wheel is made in blued steel, and the famous split-second clamps are made all of a piece. The rattrapante bridge is hand-engraved with a “shooting star” motif.
The LM27 movement
Entirely redeveloped on the basis of an historical Venus calibre, the LM27 movement is a blend of sophisticated technology and aesthetic charm. The finest artisans have used modern methods of accentuating its beauty. The gilded wheels and jewel sinks, as well as the blued steel screws highlight the strong character of this finely crafted movement. The tourbillon bridge is embellished with a hand engraving evoking the cosmos in a fascinating artistic manner. Above and beyond the technical accomplishment, it reflects a determination to achieve aesthetic harmony and which propels Astralis to the very forefront of the watchmaking scene.
Astral Tourbillon
The entire escapement is mounted on a mobile carriage, thereby cancelling out the effects of gravity and enhancing rating precision. The plate is made from aventurine, finely chased and measuring a mere 0.03 millimetres thick – a major technical feat in itself. Aventurine perfectly evokes a star-studded sky and thus creates a delightful stellar backdrop for the technical nature of the tourbillon.
Inside the mobile carriage, the balance-and-spring assembly, lever-wheel and lever perform a full turn every 60 seconds.
And finally, ASTRALIS intensifies the magic of the tourbillon by connecting its carriage to the planetarium via a vertical bar that is manually bevelled, drawn, and adorned with a jewel on both ends.
Limited Edition of 12 pieces.
Interior
Movement -Louis Moinet Calibre LM27. Winding – Hand-winding. Oscillations 21,600 vph (6 V/S, 6 vibrations per second). Frequency 3 Hz. Lines 14 ½. Power reserve – 48 hours. Jewels 31. Escapement – Side lever. Oscillator – CuBe, two arms, moment of inertia: 10.5 mg/cm2, lever angle – 52°.
Finish – Hand-engraved tourbillon bridge. Hand-engraved rattrapante bridge. Polished jewel sinks. Grained brass. Blued steel screws.
Functions – Astral Tourbillon. Split-second column-wheel Chronograph. 24-hour Planetarium. Tourbillon carriage – 1 turn/minute. Split-second mechanism – Blued steel column-wheel with monobloc split-second clamps. Planetarium – 1 rotation per day, plate in aventurine.
Exclusive meteorites – Moon Dhofar 459 (Moon Meteorite). Mars Jiddat al Harasis 479 (Mars Meteorite). Mercury Sahara 99555 (The oldest known rock in the solar system, possibly from Mercury). Sun Itqiy (Mysterious asteroid formed near the Sun).
Exterior
Case – Original design by Louis Moinet®. Composed of 50 different parts. Material 18-Kt Rose Gold 5N, polished and mat finish. Case diameter 46.50 mm. Case thickness 17.62 mm. Water-resistance 50 metres. Caseback Secured with 7 screws. Engraved with the individual number and Louis Moinet symbols.
Crystals – Two sapphire crystals with double-sided antiglare coating. Crown guard Patent pending.
Split-second Activated thanks to a pusher located inside the crown. Split-second hand “Shooting star” design. Chronograph pushers “Wind rose” design.
Dial / Hands – “Côtes du Jura” ® design. Hand-engraved zone and facetted applied hour-markers. Hands “Gouttes de Rosée” design.
Bracelet – Louisiana alligator leather with crocodile lining, hand-sewn
Inter-horn width 24 mm.
Buckle -18-Kt rose gold 5N & black titanium double folding clasp.
Source: Louis Moinet
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Hublot Big Bang Vendome Gold Tourbillon, tribute in limited edition
Dubbed “Tourbillon Vendome”, it was developed in tribute to the recent opening of the Hublot boutique in Place Vendôme. Hence two small columns can be seen on the dial side (two for 200 years), framing the tourbillon cage. Crafted from bronze, they are perfect replicas of the column in Place Vendôme, which celebrated its bicentenary (in lights thanks to Hublot) last December.
The flying tourbillon movement dubbed HUB6003 was entirely developed and manufactured within the Hublot manufacture. With 210 components, it boasts the special feature of a 5-day power reserve. This exceptional piece comes in two versions: a 5N red gold version, and a version made from microblasted black ceramic.
Lmited Edition to 10 pieces.
Movement – HUB6003 mechanical tourbillon with off-centre hour and minute. Indicators at 12 o’clock and seconds via the tourbillon. Cage at 6 o’clock. Bridges – Microblasted angled and polished with black galvanic treatment. Screws – Black PVD. Main plate – Microblasted with black galvanic treatment. Barrel – With reinforced spring. Escapement – Glucydur hairspring. Power reserve – 120 hours.
Case – Big Bang 44 mm in satin-finished. 18K red gold. Crystal in sapphire with anti-reflective treatment. Bezel lug in black Composite resin. Case-back in satin-finished 18K red gold with sapphire crystal. Interior anti-reflective treatment. Crown in 18K red gold with black rubber insert. Screws in Titanium. Water resistance 100 m or 10 ATM.
Dial and Hands – 18K red gold dial. Satin-finished and microblasted. 18K red gold hands with black luminescent.
Bezel – 18K red gold with vertical satin finish with 6 h-shaped titanium screws.
Strap and Clasp – Strap with black alligator skin top, and black rubber inner. Deployant buckle clasp in 18K red gold.
Source: HUBLOT
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Concord C1 Chronograph Amethyste, piece unique
This C1 Chronograph is presented in a 44 mm white gold case made of 53 elements, standing 16.70 mm tall and set with 178 baguette-cut Amethyst stones, 12.2 ct.
This timepiece, holding a 48-hour power reserve movement is certified by the official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The full pavé dial displays a date indicator at 3 o’clock, a 30-minute chronograph counter at 12, 12-hour counter at 6 and the concord seconds disk at 9 o’clock.
Movement – Self-winding mechanical COSC-certified Valgranges movement.
Case – 44 mm diameter 18K white gold case set with 178 baguette-cut Amethyst stones, 12.2 ct.
Dial – Full pavé dial set with 32 baguette-cut amethyst stones, 2.7 ct.
Crystal – 3.3 mm sapphire crystal.
Water-resistance – 3 ATM.
Strap – Purple alligator.
Clasp – 18K white gold folding clasp set with 11 baguette-cut amethyst stones, 1.7 ct.
Source: Concord
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Graham Chronofighter Fortress, more than a mission
“Welcome on board.” GRAHAM London is on a mission. A long flight back to the very origins. No, not all the way back to George Graham, the father of the chronograph, the genius who inspires the brand, but back to another world none the less.
“This is your captain speaking.” Today’s destination is the world of the first and iconic Chronofighter, the Chronofighter Fortress.
“Fasten your seat belts, it’s going to be bumpy ride.” We are about to travel through time. Our destination is the skies of the 1940s. A dangerous place, even for the aces of the RAF, the British Royal Air Force.
The Chronofighter Fortress pays homage to the watches worn by the aircrews of RAF Bomber Command.
In the beginning, stopwatches used by flying officers were in fact just large pocket watches strapped over bomber jackets. Nonetheless, they were vital pieces of equipment used to follow flight plans and to time air raids. Already these early watches had to be trusted by the aviators as a matter of life and death. They were praised for their reliability and precision. These watches had to work high up in a world made of adrenaline and excitement where the freezing temperatures of high altitudes reign supreme. They were operated by men clad in heavily lined leather jackets and big gloves, strapped into their seats, in the confinement of a flight deck in combat. And after dark, on a night mission, in the dim glow of the cockpit instruments.
More than enough reasons to design and develop a specific system to activate the chronograph without fail – the result was the now famous lever.
The lever is a device which allows the crewmember to operate the chronograph intuitively under stress, while wearing those heavy gloves. It is a fail-safe system which does not distract the wearer from vital tasks because the left-hand lever is effortlessly reached with the right hand. The thumb, the fastest of all fingers, starts and stops the chronograph. The result is precise timing.
We have now reached cruising altitude. Through the window, you can examine an authentic watch that recalls these times. Fixed on a bomber jacket leather strap, the 43 mm case features a black dial with beige Super-LumiNova numerals, indexes and hands. They are the exact shade of aging Tritium found on historic military timepieces. The chrono seconds and minutes counter hands are red, bringing out the chronograph functions.
With its vintage look, this time instrument embodies a part of British aviation history. Like the fuselage of a Flying Fortress, the case presents a subtle mix of brushed and polished steel, playing with the light, combined with a completely transparent case back. The R.A.C. (roue à colonnes) device is the most elegant and precise mechanism to control the start – stop – reset functions of the chronograph. The blue propeller shaped column wheel is recognizable by its seven polished triangular segments. Each starts or stops the chronograph by activating numerous levers. Or they allow the resetting of the counters. Finally, the distinctive and prominent lever on the left side of the case represents the essence of the Chronofighter collection.
Main features also include
43 mm steel case. Calibre G1742, automatic self-winding column-wheel movement. 28 jewels. 28’800 A/h (4Hz). Incabloc shock absorber. 48 hours power reserve. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, see-through sapphire case back and leather strap.
Source: GRAHAM London
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook






















