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Antoine Martin Quantieme Perpetual QP01, innovative progressive case design

The first watch collection by Antoine Martin unites the most innovative that the art of watchmaking has to offer within a modern, progressive case design. Inside the case ticks a fascinating manufacture movement, developed and manufactured in the company’s own workshop in the heart of Switzerland: Alpnach, located near Lucerne. An impressive number of new technical solutions can be found within the movement.
The Case
The case is hardly to be topped in terms of complexity. In order to showcase the wondrous interplay of polishing and satin finishing, this case was conceived to include detachable strap lugs. Thus, the recesses are polished to a high gloss, while the upper parts remain matte. The strikingly designed flanks, which lend the case its unique lines, are also individually secured. An unmistakable element of an Antoine Martin watch is certainly the crown, which is reminiscent of classic Bauhaus design. This case in its entirety is a lavish construction comprising 85 individual components.
The Movement
A modified Swiss lever escapement called HPE (High Performance Escapement) that includes silicium ensures increased energy yield; the brand-new Aerodynamic Amplitude Stabilization (ADAS) guarantees an even rate; and this movement boasts a free-sprung balance spring, which is one of the prerequisites in attaining the Seal of Geneva. Manually wound Calibre AM 39.001, in which twin mainsprings ensure a power reserve of six days, is outfitted with a perpetual calendar and a large date. The visual cherry on top is the extra-large balance crafted in Grade 5 titanium boasting an incredible diameter of 17.5 mm.
The Dial
The designers at Antoine Martin have also left nothing to chance with regard to the dial. A modern interpretation of classic guilloché embellishing the centre and a completely new style of applied numerals combine to create this watch’s very striking face. The vertical placement of the perpetual calendar’s day and month displays and the leap year indication at the 12 o’clock position were only possible thanks to a few new tricks up the engineers’ sleeves.
Variations
The Perpetual Calendar is available in a rose gold 18K, white gold 18K, or black DLC-coated stainless steel case.
Source: Antoine Martin

Fonte: Luxury & Fine TimepiecesFacebook

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Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 Géant Titanium, special model in limited edition

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The Chrono 4 Géant collection is being enhanced with the special titanium edition, limited to 1887 models celebrating the Eberhard & Co.’s foundation year.
The titanium model confirms the compactness, strength and dynamism conveyed by its predecessor and is an exclusive chronograph with explosive energy, generating a strong and decisive impact with every aspect of its design details. It has an imposing 46 mm diameter titanium case with satin finish, a rotating bezel studded with PVD-treated screws and, engraved on the satin caseback arethe name of the model and the motto “never forget who you are”.
Water-resistant to 200 metres, with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the titanium Chrono 4 Géant is available with a black or dial, displaying a circular metal plate, with a “Côte de Genève” decor, 6 black screws and shield “E” engraved in red colour. Luminescent applique indexes and the central seconds hand figure prominently, embellished with black or, snailed counter displays and contrasting red hands.
Reinforcing its decidedly gutsy character, the Chrono 4 Géant comes with an attractive, vertically sculpted rubber strap, or with a titanium bracelet.
Movement – Calibre EB. 250 12 ½ ” – basis ETA 2894 mechanical chronograph with automatic winding. The complete mechanism works with 53 rubies.
Functions – Eberhard & Co. device with 4 counters in line: minutes, hours, 24 hours and small seconds – date.
Case – Titanium, satin, with decorative black PVD-treated screws (Physical Vapour Deposition) on the crown guard. Diameter – 46 mm. Thickness – 14,10 mm. Case-back – Satin, with engravings, slightly curved on the outer edge – secured by 8 screws. Strap attachment – 22,00 mm.
Dials – Black Or dial, black or counters with red hands Shiny, with matt centre zone and snailed counters – luminescent, applique hourmarkers, black or. Date window at 12 o’clock – raised brand name. Red centre seconds-hand. Tachymeter scale on the flange expressed in Km/h. Subtle circular metal plate with Côte de Genève finish, 6 steel screws and “E” shield, engraved in red colour.
Crown – Screw-in, with crown guard and engraved elements to provide optimum grip; personalized with the ancient shield, symbol of the Maison, in bas-relief.
Push-pieces – Screw-down, with engraved elements to provide optimum grip; decorative black PVD-treated screws.
Bezel – Unidirectional rotating bezel, featuring 6 black PVD-treated screws and black engraved numerals.
Hands – Sword-shaped, skeleton, luminescent.
Crystal – Sapphire, flat, anti-reflective.
Water-resistance – 200 metres.
Strap – Rubber, vertically sculpted. Personalized with the “E” shield, engraved in bas-relief – “E&C” personalized titanium buckle.
Bracelet – Titanium.
Source: Eberhard & Co.

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Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Calendar, innovative technology combined with classic elegance

The launch of the Patravi EvoTec DayDate at Baselworld 2009 marked the first step into a new watchmaking era for Carl F. Bucherer. This was the first model from the brand to have its own CFB A1000 Manufacture caliber, characterized by its peripherally mounted and bidirectional winding oscillating weight, its shock-absorption system (DSA) (patent pending) and an intelligent precision adjustment method with a central control element. The CFB A1000 was developed by construction engineers to serve as an ideal platform for housing specially developed functional modules. Carl F. Bucherer then went on to launch two more Patravi models in 2010: the EvoTec PowerReserve and EvoTec BigDate, both presented in eye-catching cushion-shaped cases.
Innovative technology combined with classic elegance. At Baselworld 2011, Carl F. Bucherer now presents the Patravi EvoTec Calendar, the first model which – while being based on the extremely resistant and reliable CFB A1000 Manufacture caliber – has a round case. Carl F. Bucherer thus reflects the preference many watch lovers have for a round timepiece. The case is produced in stainless steel or 18 K rose gold and has a diameter of 42.6 mm. The dial, which is available in black or silver, has a clearly defined design. Once again – as is typical of the Patravi EvoTec range – the Patravi EvoTec Calendar features a big date at 11 o’clock, confirming that this model belongs to the Patravi EvoTec family despite its round case. The small seconds function is indicated on the case by means of a disk. As this does not visually obstruct the indication of the weeks, it ensures optimum readability for the wearer.
An additional touch of elegance for the Patravi EvoTec Calendar is provided by the calfskin strap, available in black or brown.
The indication of 53 calendar weeks. The internal workings of the Patravi EvoTec Calendar features fascinating functions including a big date, a date indication and a small seconds display. In contrast with its predecessors, this model also has a indication of the weeks display, which reflects the round shape of the case within the dial-train, and displays the current calendar week by means of a pointer. Finally, this innovative model is equipped with the automatic CFB A1004 Manufacture caliber, which – like the CFB A1001, the CFB A1002 and the CFB A1003 that preceded it – is based on the “Evolution Technology” Manufacture concept. In addition to the indication of 52 calendar weeks, the CFB A1004 also includes a 53rd calendar week to avoid having to put the week calendar back in the relevant years.
The Patravi EvoTec Calendar was designed both for elegantly sporty men and for self-assured, independent women. With this functionally powerful timepiece, Carl F. Bucherer once again demonstrates its constant quest for perfection and its desire to create something truly extraordinary.
Movement – Automatic, CFB A1004 Manufacture caliber, diameter 32 mm, height 6.9 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours.
Functions – Display of the week, big date, date, small seconds.
Case – Stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m, diameter 42.6 mm, height 12.85 mm.
Strap – Calfskin, folding clasp.
Variants – 18K rose gold case, calfskin strap with rose gold folding clasp.
Source: Carl F. Bucherer

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Marvin Loeb Summer Collection, two sporty watches

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Two new sporty watches in summer colours developed in partnership with Sébastien Loeb, seven-time world rally champion.
A racing watch
The Loeb collection from Marvin evokes the world of rallying in its smallest details, thanks to the personal contributions of Marvin’s ambassador Sébastien Loeb, who has been passionately involved in this project.
In October 2010, one month before the official launch of the watch collection that bears his name, Sébastien Loeb was crowned world champion for the seventh time running.
Dynamic and vibrantly coloured, these new models from the Marvin Loeb Summer Collection are quartz chronograph timepieces, accurate to 1/10th of a second, available on a white or orange rubber strap. The corresponding dials, in white or black with an orange border, bear the signature of Sébastien Loeb. The steel caseband, with its 44 mm diameter and shaped sides, gives it a strongly technical, dynamic appearance. The solid case back is personalised with the engraving “World Rally Champion”.
Marvin reconnects with the world of motor sport
This sporty collection makes subtle reference to Marvin’s long-standing passion for automobiles. In as early as the 1930s, the brand launched its “tyre watch”, a pocket watch housed in a rubber tyre. In the 1950s, the company director Pierre Didisheim took part in several races, where he met legendary drivers like Fangio, who went on to become a Marvin ambassador.
Movement – ETA G10.711, quartz chronograph accurate to 1/10th of a second, date between 4 and 5 o’clock, Swiss Made.
Case – Steel, 44 mm, screw-down case back and crown, push-pieces treated with black PVD, sand-blasted and fine-brushed finish; tachometric scale engraved on the bezel.
Dial – White or black with orange border and Superluminova C1 on the hour-markers. Special markings: Sébastien Loeb Signature between 3 and 4 o’clock.
Crystal – Anti-reflection sapphire, scratch-resistant.
Water-resistance – 10 ATM (100 metres, 330 ft.).
Strap – White or orange rubber, pin buckle.
Source: Marvin

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MB&F HM N°3 ReBel, three-dimensional sculpture in limited edition

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James Dean was a Hollywood Rebel Without a Cause; Billy Idol had a Rebel Yell; Star Wars had its Rebel Alliance; and now MB&F pokes the establishment firmly in its conservatively-focused eye with the HM3 ReBel. Whereas James Dean was the epitome of movie star bad boy, MB&F is the wild child of haute horlogerie; the lone biker in a black leather jacket when everyone else is wearing grey suits and driving Volvos. And unlike Dean, the HM3 ReBel knows exactly what its cause is: horological anarchy!
ReBel: R for right (hand), B for Black (case). The black-coated ReBel is a distinctive, rock ‘n roll mirror-image of the HM3 designed to be worn on the right wrist, as a few individualists out there are wont to do.
And like all true rebels, nothing on the HM3 ReBel is quite as it first appears, especially when you take a closer look behind its nonchalantly cool façade. Under the ReBel’s open black leather jacket – or to be more precise, its black PVD-treated white gold case – charcoal-coloured movement plates and bridges form a darkened backdrop to the resplendent flash of the 22K rotor as it speeds by.
Despite its anarchistic appearance and unorthodox right-wrist architecture, the HM3 ReBel has a serious side. This dynamic, three-dimensional sculpture is a highly technical wristwatch as well as a statement of attitude. The ReBel’s twin cones ergonomically indicate the hours and minutes, with the hour cone capped by a day/night indicator. The top caps of the truncated cones are brazed (not glued) to ensure maximum water-resistance and the red “hands” of the hour and minute indicators are cut by laser to obtain the incredibly high precision/minimum mass ratio the design necessitates.
White gold clover-head screws on top of the black case resemble rivets in an upmarket biker’s leather jacket, while the large, legible numbers of the over-sized date wheel around the rotor enable the date to be read off easily against a neat, engraved triangle on the case.
The rotor and oscillating balance on top provide a clue that the ReBel’s movement, featuring no less than 36 functional jewels and 304 components, is actually inverted. Turning the Machine over reveals the technical secret behind the powerful and superbly hand-finished engine: two large-diameter, high-tech ceramic bearings racing inside bright blue cages efficiently transmitting power up to the time indication cones and date wheel.
We think James Dean would have worn one; Billy Idol would have sang about it; and the Rebel Alliance would have fought for it.
HM3 ReBel is a limited edition of 18 pieces in black PVD-treated white gold, blackened movement and 22K gold rotor.
Movement – Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor. Powered by Girard-Perregaux base. Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph. 22K gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor. Hour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to laser-cut hands. Number of jewels – 36 (all functional). Number of components – 304.
Functions – Hour and day/night indicator on one cone. Minutes on second cone. Date around the movement.
Case – Black PVD coated 18K white gold case; limited edition of 18 pieces. Screwed-down crown. Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs) – 47 mm x 50 mm x 16 mm. Number of case components – 57.
Sapphire crystals – Cones and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Strap & Buckle – Black hand-stitched alligator with 18K white gold and titanium custom designed deployment buckle.
Source: MB&F

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Blacksand Uniformity, contemporary timepiece

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A striking emblem of a new trend resolutely geared towards thoroughbred authenticity; Blacksand presents Uniformity, a contemporary timepiece at the crossroads between pristine watchmaking traditions and a minimalist style that reveals its full potential through powerful aesthetic references.
Immediately recognizable with its urbane yet sporty appearance, the Uniformity model asserts itself through the curves that reveal a case framed by two sand-blasted matt ceramic shafts that shape the lugs while accentuating the combination of materials. Expressing total harmony, these geometrical proportions are the Blacksand style signature and house a finely crafted movement that is certified by the COSC and by Chronofiable. The open caseback, protected by a sapphire crystal, beckons the eye to appreciate the authenticity in motion of a self-winding twin-barrel movement beating steadily at the pace of 28,800 vibrations per hour throughout its 120-hour power-reserve.
The hour, minute, seconds and date functions are displayed on an elegant dial, featuring hands, numerals and hour-markers that brighten up the dark night with a shimmering opaline blue glint, ensuring maximum readability and visual magic.
Uniformity offers a fascinating demonstration of aesthetic differentiation, bringing to the stage the authentic spirit of the Blacksand brand that combines traditional know-how with an unequivocally contemporary approach conjugating both tenses: a modern present and a classic future.
The case measuring 46 mm in diameter with a 23 mm interlug width is available in grade 5 titanium, tantalum, 5N gold or sand-blasted matt ceramic. The screw-in open caseback is constituted of a threaded ring in order to keep the engravings firmly in the correct position and sapphire crystal featuring an invisible marking revealed under heat. The screw-down crown with its matt ceramic insert and cap guarantees water-resistant up to 100 metres. The two-level dial with its opaline base and straight satin-brushed upper plate is available in black, black gold or white, with a choice of rhodium treated hour-markers with blue-emission Superluminova or Arabic numerals made of composite Superluminova in high relief. Hands with original Blacksand identity codes: satin-brushed or polished and coated with a matt varnish according to the “épargne” protective process. Interchangeable straps in HNBR technical rubber or alligator skin fitted with a triple-blade folding clasp completed with ceramic-capped personalized pushers.
Blacksand Genève Calibre 1970. Self-winding twin-barrel movement 13 ¼ lignes, certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) and Chronofiable, Technotime base calibre with the following characteristics: instant date jump, stop seconds, one-way automatic winding, 120-hour (5-day) power-reserve, 35 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). The tungsten carbide rotor features an exclusive ruthenium decoration and a pierced Blacksand logo.
Source: Blacksand

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Glashütte Original Senator Diary, new white gold version with a grey leather strap

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Glashütte Original presents the Senator Diary in a new, white gold version with a grey Nubuk leather strap. The design of the watch is beautifully balanced, with two crowns positioned directly opposite each other on either side of the case, each flanked by a pusher. The crown and pusher on the right operate the compelling panorama data display, positioned at 3 o’clock within the ruthenium galvanized dial. White gold hour, minute and sweep second hands enhance the elegance of the design.
The eye of the connoisseur is drawn immediately to the diary alarm – a ruthenium colored sub-dial framed by a German silver ring at 9 o’clock and a gently curving aperture indicated by a red arrow at 6 o’clock. To set the alarm, first select the date, referring to the diary alarm window positioned within the sub-dial at 10 o’clock. Press the pusher positioned at 8 o’clock until the letter ‘d’ appears in the window. Turn the 10 o’clock crown until the red and silver pointer selects the correct date from Arabic numerals 1 to 31. To set the time, press the pusher once more; the letter ‘h’ appears. Turn the crown to select the time, referring to the aperture at 6 o’clock, from quarter-hour intervals from 00.15 to 24.00 hours.
To set the alarm, press the pusher once more to bring the alarm symbol (a bell) into view, then turn the crown to wind the alarm. When the set date and time arrives, the alarm rings – for up to one minute. To stop the alarm (or to cancel one set previously), press the 8 o’clock pusher until the ‘alarm off’ symbol appears in the window (a black line struck through the bell).
The heart of the Senator Diary is the Glashütte Original Caliber 100-13, which combines the Caliber 100-03 with the extraordinary new diary appointment module for total of 600 components (the diary appointment module alone consists of 340 components), all but a handful of which are designed, manufactured, finished and painstakingly assembled in the Glashütte Original manufactory. A superb example of the art of engineering at Glashütte Original, the ingeniously interlocking components permit the wearer to set an appointment beyond the end of the month, even when a manual correction of the date is required; any change in date at the end of the month is passed along to the alarm mechanism, obviating the need to reset the alarm. A third spring barrel built into the module ensures that even if the watch runs down, the alarm remains wound.
The Caliber 100-13 automatic movement exhibits further evidence of excellence in fine mechanical watches from Glashütte Original, including a divided three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing, polished steel components, beveled edges and blued screws. These exquisite finishings are easily visible through the sapphire crystal case back.
The Senator Diary is available as described above, in stainless steel and in rose gold with rose gold case, rose gold hour, minute and sweep second hands and applied rose gold hour markers on a galvanized silver dial. The date indicator on the diary alarm sub-dial is in blue, as is the small arrow indicating the diary alarm time aperture at 6 o’clock. All versions feature a finely worked Louisiana alligator leather strap.
Source: Glashütte Original

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