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MB&F Horological Machine N°2 SV The Final Editions [Limited Edition]

July 19, 2011 Leave a comment

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First launched in 2008, Horological Machine No2 revolutionized the world of haute horlogerie with its distinctive rectangular shape, flying buttresses, dual portholes and modular construction. The crystal-clear sapphire case of HM2-SV then took the revolution even further by offering unprecedented visual access into the meticulously hand-finished, 349-component engine powering the indications on HM2′s iconic twin dials.
But all good things come to an end and, after three very successful years, Horological Machine No2 takes one last bow on center stage with two final limited editions of 18 pieces each, both featuring sapphire cases: HM2-Black SV and HM2-Red SV close the HM2 collection, thus ensuring its exclusivity.
Synthetic sapphire watchcases are extremely rare for good reason. While sapphire retains its strength at high temperatures, has zero porosity and (below 300°C) does not react to acids, the very properties that make it so attractive also make it extremely difficult to mill, requiring sophisticated (and expensive) diamond tools to machine, followed by careful polishing to turn the opaque freshly cut or drilled surface transparent. The complex, three-dimensional form required for HM2-SV’s case, with its bevels, mounting holes, porthole cut-outs and embedded gasket track, pushed the limits of sapphire technology beyond what was thought possible. No less than 55 hours of milling, drilling and polishing are required just to create each sapphire case.
While both new final models are derived from the original HM2-SV, each has its own very distinctive identity.
HM2-Black SV features a sapphire case, black dials and a black PVD titanium baseplate that makes a strongly contrasting backdrop for the unique architecture of the HM2 Engine inside, which is framed by an electric green rubber gasket clearly visible through the transparent top. Turning the watch over reveals yet another splash of colour from the vivid green 22K gold winding rotor.
HM2-Red SV has its sapphire case black dials mounted on a regal red gold baseplate. The black dials, black rubber gasket and the rich red of the caseback provide a stunning juxtaposition with HM2′s silver Engine. Turning the watch over rewards the viewer with the sight of MB&F’s signature 22K red gold battle-axe rotor complimenting the red gold of the caseback.
The HM2 engine, developed by award-winning master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, features the world’s first mechanical movement offering: Instantaneous Jump Hour, Concentric Retrograde Minutes, Retrograde Date, Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase and Automatic Winding. One highlight (of many) of the HM2 complication is the highly energy-efficient Jump Hour/Retrograde mechanism developed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, which uses his exclusive (and patented) asymmetrical-tooth gear wheels to ensure high precision and play-free functionality.
The sapphire case: Surprisingly, because it is largely unseen, the sapphire cases of these final editions are a substantial 3.6mm thick. Thanks to anti-reflective treatment on both sides – in itself no small technological feat to uniformly apply – the case becomes virtually invisible and allows for full appreciation of the myriad nuances of the complex movement. Eight mounting bolts traverse the sapphire plate like pillars, passing through the twin tracks of the rubber gasket sealing the sapphire case and caseback, add to the architectural nature of the three-dimensional case.
The case, with its flying buttresses, bolted portholes, was so complex – over 100 components go into its construction alone – that it could only be developed with an innovative modular method inspired by the Meccano sets of Maximilian Büsser’s childhood. And in line with best engineering principles, this modularity also simplifies future refurbishment of the case should it ever be necessary.
Technical Innovations: The principle technical challenge in developing the movement was ensuring that the jumping hour functioned both instantaneously and simultaneously when the retrograde minute flies back from 60 to 0. And not only instantaneously: without using excessive energy. The usual method of activating Jumping Hour indications is to store energy in the minutes before the change to power the jump; however, while this energy is being accumulated it takes power from the balance causing it to loose amplitude – an effect detrimental to time-keeping precision. Wiederrecht’s solution was as brilliant as it was simple: he designed a ingenious mechanism so that when the minutes fly back, a snail on the minute mechanism hits the hour star causing the hour to jump. The hour jumps instantaneously with the minutes because it is triggered by the minutes and, as the jump is powered by the energy of the minutes flying back, it has virtually no effect on the amplitude of the balance.
While the complications and functionality operate with maximum efficiency, with 349 components in the movement alone, there are no doubting HM2′s credentials as an incredibly technical tour de force.
The complication has another very special feature. Specific gears in HM2′s movement are manufactured to extremely high precision using Mimotec’s UV-LIGA technology. These gears mesh together with a virtually a no-tolerance/no-play engagement. Normally, gears interacting this tightly would bind; however, Wiederrecht’s patented asymmetrical-split-tooth gear design ensures this does not occur. The high precision of this gearing enables very accurate time-setting and offers high reliability.
To maximise the efficiency of MB&F’s already iconic battle-axe automatic rotor, one of the 22K gold blades was machined down to a razor sharp edge of just 0.2mm – a dimension that pushed the very limits of micro-machining!
While Horological Machine No2 is a high-tech machine of the 21st century, the quality and hand execution of the fine finishing is a showcase of the very best in traditional craftsmanship. Light flashing off hand finished mirror-polished surfaces and immaculate bevelling brings vivacity to the rich combination of colours, materials, shapes and textures.

Movement – Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor designed functionality regulated and powered by a Girard-Perregaux base. Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph. 22K red gold battle-axe automatic winding rotor (green PVD coated 22K for HM2-Black SV). Number of components – 349 including 44 jewels.
Functions – Left dial: Retrograde Date and Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase. Right Dial: Jumping Hours and Concentric Retrograde Minutes.
Case – HM2-Black SV: Sapphire/black PVD coated titanium baseplate, electric green gasket, limited to 18 pieces. HM2-Red SV – Sapphire/18K red gold baseplate, black gasket, limited to 18 pieces. Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs) – 59 mm x 38 mm x 13 mm. Water resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM). Number of parts – 120 (case only).
Sapphire crystals – Sapphire case top and crystals over the dual dials treated with anti-reflective treatment on both faces. Display back with anti-reflective treatment on single face.
Dials – Brushed sapphire and black metallic disks.
Strap & Buckle – Black hand-stitched alligator with 18K gold & titanium folding buckle.
Presentation box – Precision engineered aluminium and leather instrument case featuring an integrated Rüeger thermometer.

Source: MB&F

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Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double and Calendrier Rétrograde [Limited Edition]

July 19, 2011 Leave a comment

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Available in a limited edition series of 50, the Masterpiece Calendrier Rétrograde and Masterpiece Double Rétrograde are produced in pink gold. The large 46 mm diameter cases, statuesque in appearance, afford time a space in keeping with its dimensions. The case, which is water-resistant to a depth of 50 m, has a very contemporary style polished and satin finish, with nothing superfluous and no decorative flourishes. Its plain simplicity is echoed in the blue dials that display the time data in a methodical and practical fashion, whatever the model.
One model features a retrograde date at 10 o’clock, the other a GMT double retrograde and date at 12 and 6 o’clock. The delicately cut out displays, stylish despite their technical sophistication, are enhanced by the sun-brushed satin finish of the dial, the deep blue colour of which confirms their credentials. The power reserve display, located at 2 or 3 o’clock depending on the model, is characterized by its bold, dynamic appearance. The pink-gold applied markers sit in a curve that stretches out gradually, giving a real impression of movement. As for the small seconds hand, it circles regularly without stopping.
In a clear, striking contrast, the fine pink-gold hands skim round the blue dial, their diamond-cut finish further enhanced by their gently curved shape. The absence of an arbor hole confirms traditional design where attention to the minutest detail is taken to its extreme. The purity, the quiet poise of the design that emanates from these timepieces cannot fail to evoke the most beautiful architectural creations where design, distilled to its purest essence, transfigures form and function. Perfect visual harmony and crystal-clear legibility testify explicitly to this.
The self-winding movements, ML 190 for the Calendrier Rétrograde and ML 191 for the Double Rétrograde, are created in the pure tradition of Swiss watchmaking. The finish, even of the tiniest component, invisible after the watch is assembled, can be seen through the sapphire crystal case backs. Their 16½ line diameter makes them among the largest automatic calibers in the market.

Movement – Automatic movement, self–winding ML 190 (Calendrier Rétrograde) and ML 191 (Double Rétrograde). Vibration – 18,000 vib/h, 2.5 Hz. Power reserve – 52 hours. Jewels – 57. Adjustments – 5 positions after full winding and after 24 hours. Decoration – Vertical brushed and Grand Colimaçon, rhodium-plated.
Functions – Double Rétrograde (ML 191) – Hours and minutes indicated by central hands. Date indicated by retrograde hand at 6 o’clock. 2nd time zone indicated by retrograde hand at 12 o’clock. Small seconds hand at 9 o’clock. Power reserve hand at 3 o’clock. Calendrier Rétrograde (ML 190) – Hours and minutes indicated by central hands. Date indicated by retrograde hand at 10 o’clock. Small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Power reserve hand at 2 o’clock.
Case – 18K pink gold, Ø 46 mm, satin and polished finishes. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 50 m/5 atm.
Dial – Based on a solid 925 silver plate. Deep blue color, with sun brushed finishing. 18K pink-gold diamond-cut applied hour markers, small seconds and power reserve indications.
Hands – 18K pink-gold stamped hours and minutes hands with diamond-cut head in the pure tradition of hands-making. 18K pink-gold hands for small seconds and power reserve indications. Rhodium-colored hand for the retrograde indications.
Strap/Bracelet – Black large-scale crocodile-skin strap, lined with black calfskin and black over-stitching.
Buckle – 18K pink-gold standard buckle.
Total Gold Weight – With standard buckle: 81.4 g (18K).
Source: Maurice Lacroix

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Chopard Only Watch L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon, carattere unico

July 18, 2011 Leave a comment

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Ha carattere, forza e si discosta deliberatamente dai canoni tradizionali del design orologiero. Il L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon Only Watch, un pezzo unico esclusivamente destinato all’evento Only Watch 2011, vibra al ritmo di un motore straordinario, il calibro di manifattura L.U.C 1TRM. Lavorato come un blocco motore e montato su silent block, questo movimento tourbillon meccanico a carica manuale è stato progettato, messo a punto e prodotto da Chopard Manufacture.

Nel 2010, Per celebrare i 150 anni di Chopard e i decenni di passione condivisa tra il marchio e il mondo delle gare automobilistiche, la manifattura ginevrina propone il nuovo modello L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon, che abbina il meglio di queste due espressioni meccaniche. Nel 2011, in occasione dell’annuale vendita all’asta Only Watch, a beneficio della ricerca contro la distrofia muscolare di Duchenne, Chopard presenta una versione speciale nera e gialla dell’ormai celebre segnatempo, che sarà prodotto in un unico esemplare.

Ispirato Alla Tradizione Automobilistica
Dalle linee forti ai dettagli di grande finezza, tutto nel L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon Only Watch celebra lo spirito automobilistico. Il modello ospita il calibro di manifattura L.U.C 1TRM, un movimento tourbillon meccanico a carica manuale che, alla stregua dei motori delle automobili, è montato su silent block – che ammortizzano gli urti – ed è trattenuto da tre bracci di leva inseriti nella massa della carrure. Progettato, messo a punto e prodotto da Chopard Manufacture, il calibro L.U.C 1TRM batte alla frequenza di 28.800 alternanze/ora e garantisce una riserva di carica di 60 ore. Il movimento tourbillon ha ottenuto il certificato di cronometria del COSC, garanzia di affidabilità e di precisione, e indica ora, minuti, piccoli secondi e riserva di carica.

Sul blocco motore alesato è stata aggiunta l’incisione Chopard nella più pura tradizione automobilistica. L’indicazione della riserva di carica a ore 12, anch’essa fissata direttamente sul lato superiore del movimento in un segmento circolare, è in linea con il ponte del tourbillon – a ore 6 – che esibisce un disegno inedito per Chopard.

La Cassa In Titanio DLC
Autentico purosangue meccanico, il modello L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon Only Watch si distingue non solo per la sua motorizzazione di altissimo livello ma anche per la carrozzeria che ne fa un orologio dallo stile inimitabile e di classe. La cassa, tagliata nel titanio e impermeabile fino a 50 metri, è lucidata e presenta una finitura nera DLC. Le anse applicate, fissate alla carrure tramite bulloni e leggermente sagomate per dare un’impressione di dinamismo all’insieme, ricordano nel profilo il parafango di una macchina e garantiscono il massimo confort adattando perfettamente al polso la cassa elegante di 35,4 x 44,4 mm. Infine, per un tocco di raffinatezza in più, il lato sinistro della carrure esibisce l’incisione “Only Watch 2011”.

Anche il quadrante si ispira all’universo automobilistico ed è lavorato in trasparenza. Sotto il vetro zaffiro antiriflesso i nuovi numeri arabi della collezione L.U.C e gli indici sono incisi poi colorati di giallo. Per completare l’insieme, il cinturino di alligatore nero cucito a mano è impreziosito da quattro rinforzi che ricordano i sedili delle auto d’epoca ed è impunturato di giallo.

Movimento – Movimento Tourbillon a carica manuale L.U.C 1TRM. Diametro totale 34,00 X 25,90 mm. Spessore 5,60 mm. Numero di rubini 29. Frequenza 28.800 alternanze/ora. 1 bariletto. Riserva di carica 60 ore. Certificato di Cronometria (COSC).
Funzioni e indicazioni – Visualizzazione dell’ora e dei minuti al centro. Visualizzazione dei piccoli secondi al 6. Indicazione della riserva di carica a ore 12.
Cassa – In titanio DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) lucidato. Lunghezza 44,4 mm. Larghezza 35,40 mm. Spessore 10,90 mm. Impermeabile fino a 50 metri. Corona in titanio DLC con logo L.U.C 7,00 mm. Vetro zaffiro antiriflesso con indici incisi sul davanti. Vetro zaffiro antiriflesso sul retro.
Quadrante e lancette – Numeri arabi incisi sotto il vetro poi colorati di giallo. Lancette Dauphine Fusée dell’ora e dei minuti. Lancette dei piccoli secondi nera. Lancetta della riserva di carica nera con punta rossa.
Cinturino e chiusura – Cinturino cucito a mano in alligatore nero con dettagli gialli, foderato di alligatore marrone con godron. Fibbia ad ardiglione in titanio DLC lucidato.

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Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Only Watch 2011, eleganza singolare

July 18, 2011 Leave a comment

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Di colore nero e bianco e caratterizzato da un tocco di rosso, per sottolineare il suo impegno caritatevole nell’iniziativa monegasca, l’orologio ww.tc Only Watch 2011 esprime un’eleganza singolare.
Alla forza dello stile si affianca la ricerca dell’innovazione di Girard-Perregaux che, in tale occasione, propone una combinazione di materiali rari ed una costruzione “high-tech”. Per la prima volta, infatti, gli ingegneri della Manifattura hanno utilizzato l’ossido di titanio, un materiale estremamente leggero, per realizzare in un solo pezzo la carrure bianca del ww.tc Only Watch 2011. Quest’inedita realizzazione si unisce ai quaranta elementi della cassa, tra cui una lunetta in ceramica ed un cerchio interno di protezione in titanio.
In questa cassa innovativa è alloggiato un prezioso movimento a carica automatica Girard-Perregaux GP03387, costituito da più di 450 componenti. Il calibro è caratterizzato dalla data, dai piccoli secondi, dalle ore del mondo e da un cronografo “fly-back”.
Infine, per confermare l’unicità del ww.tc Only Watch 2011, la Manifattura ha scelto un fondello in vetro zaffiro fumé, svelando così il suo “savoir faire” a favore di quest’importante causa.

Movimento – Girard-Perregaux GP03387. Meccanico a carica automatica. Calibro 13”’. Frequenza 28’800 alternanze/ora (4 Hz). Rubini 63. Riserva di carica – Minimo 46 ore.
Funzioni – Ore, minuti, piccoli secondi, ore del mondo con indicatore giorno/notte, cronografo fly-back, data.
Cassa – Carrure in ossido di titanio, lunetta in ceramica, cerchio interno di protezione e fondo in titanio. Pulsanti e corone in caucciù vulcanizzato. Diametro 43 mm. Altezza 13,40 mm.
Fondello – Vetro zaffiro fumé, chiuso mediante 6 viti.
Impermeabilità – 100 metri.
Cinturino – Nero in caucciù.
Fibbia – Déployante nera in Titanio DLC.

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Bell & Ross Vintage PW1 & WW1 Réserve de marche

July 16, 2011 Leave a comment

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Orologi Militari: Il Tempo Ritrovato
L’anno 2011 segna una tappa chiave nella storia di Bell&Ross. Maestra nell’orologeria di ispirazione militare, la Maison francosvizzera fa parlare ancora una volta di sé rinnovando i primi segnatempo da polso indossati negli anni ’20. Bell & Ross rende così omaggio alla storia del tempo militare presentando un orologio da tasca e la sua evoluzione in orologio da polso: il Vintage WW1.

La Macchina Del Tempo
Nel 2011, come in un flashback cinematografico, Bell&Ross intraprende un viaggio indietro nel tempo e propone un orologio da tasca, al tempo stesso nostalgico e moderno, sua evoluzione come orologio da polso: il Vintage WW1. Un modo di reinterpretare la storia dell’orologio militare che ha sempre guidato le creazioni del marchio.

«Andiamo a ritroso nel tempo per completare la nostra collezione» spiega Bruno Belamich, il designer di Bell&Ross. «Sin dai nostri esordi, l’orologio militare è stato la nostra passione e desideriamo reinventare i primi modelli di quegli orologi da polso indossati dai piloti negli anni ’20.» La sfida? Rimanere fedele ai canoni orologieri dell’epoca adattandoli, al tempo stesso, ai valori concettuali di Bell&Ross.

Dall’orologio Da Tasca All’Orologio Da Polso
Questa riappropriazione dell’universo del passato si manifesta in due tempi: il lancio di un orologio da tasca di rara sobrietà, PW1 per Pocket Watch1, e la presentazione di un orologio da polso battezzato Vintage WW1 per Wrist Watch1. Dapprima indossati dai «Poilus», soprannome dato ai soldati francesi nella Grande Guerra, i primi orologi da polso furono quindi testati dai piloti in modo sperimentale negli anni ’20 per essere poi resi tecnicamente affidabili negli anni ’30. Il Vintage WW1 è un omaggio a quest’epoca e si ispira ai codici stilistici degli Années Folles senza tuttavia cedere al tradizionalismo Vero e proprio anello di congiunzione della catena tra l’orologio da tasca e quello da polso degli anni ’40, il Vintage WW1 concentra nelle sue forme e nelle sue funzioni tutti i codici genetici di Bell&Ross.

Un Orologio Classico, Elegante, Diverso
Nel 2005 Bell&Ross aveva compiuto la metamorfosi degli strumenti di bordo aeronautici in un orologio quadrato inimitabile: il BR01. Nel 2011 il marchio rivisita a modo suo la leggenda della trasformazione dell’orologio da tasca in orologio da polso militare. Il modello Vintage WW1 si definisce chiaramente come una reincarnazione del passato per allinearsi al presente. Importanti dimensioni del formato da tasca, a filo saldate alla cassa, cinturini in pelle eleganti e robusti, quadrante di estrema leggibilità, corona zigrinata facilmente utilizzabile con guanti, movimento meccanico di alta qualità.

Il Vintage WW1 avrebbe potuto essere indossato da un pilota degli anni ’20. Nel XXI secolo lo sarà da tutti coloro che ricercano un segnatempo di grandi dimensioni, classico, elegante e che fa faccia la differenza. Icona maschile, questo orologio di grande purezza apre l’era di un nuovo stile: il neoclassicismo militare.

VINTAGE PW1
Movimento – Meccanico manuale – ETA 6497.
Funzioni – Ore, minuti, piccoli secondi.
Cassa – Diametro 49 mm. Acciaio lucidato.
Quadrante – Nero galvanico, decoro soleil, bombato. Indici, numeri e lancette ricoperti di un rivestimento fotoluminescente.
Vetro – Zaffiro bombato antiriflesso.
Impermeabilità – 30 metri.

VINTAGE WW1 RESERVE DE MARCHE
Movimento – Meccanico automatico – ETA 2897.
Funzioni – Ore, minuti, secondi. Indicatore di riserva di carica.
Cassa – Diametro 45 mm. Acciaio lucidato.
Quadrante – Nero galvanico, decoro soleil, bombato. Indici, numeri e lancette ricoperti di un rivestimento fotoluminescente.
Vetro – Zaffiro bombato antiriflesso.
Impermeabilità – 50 metri.
Cinturino – Alligatore nero.
Fibbia – Ad ardiglione. Acciaio lucidato.

Source / Fonte: Bell & Ross

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Baume & Mercier Classima Jumping Hour and Dual Time Zone Power Reserve (PRE-SIHH 2011)

July 15, 2011 Leave a comment

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Offering a unique combination of classical and modern elements, the Classima collection by Baume & Mercier is a best-seller that has become a true favorite among executives all over the world. Classima, by nature, is at home in any circumstances, thus empowering its wearer to move smoothly from the rigorous discipline of the city to the serenity of a relaxed environment. Firmly rooted in tradition, it is a sign of inner wealth that is made to be shared without ostentation.
The new Classima models confirm the spirit of this collection,embodying timelessly chic and discreet masculinity.
Classima Automatic Jumping Hour – This new 42 mm size Classima 2011 model with its refined design is driven by an automatic Dubois Depraz 14400 movement adorned with a “Côtes de Genève” motif. Its attractive jumping-hour function is complemented by its silvered “barleycorn” guilloché dial graced with black numerals, and a sapphire crystal case-back revealing the personalized oscillating weight bearing the brand’s PHI symbol.
Limited & numbered edition of 500
Movement – Automatic (Dubois Depraz 14400), movement adorned with “Côtes de Genève” décor.
Function – Jumping hour.
Case – Steel, sapphire crystal case back. Diameter – 42 mm.
Dial – Silvered, “Grain d’orge” guilloché décor, black arabic numerals, riveted dots and indexes.
Water-reistance – 30 m.
Strap – Black alligator.
Buckle – Adjustable triple folding.
Classima Dual Time Zone Power Reserve – Another superb 2011 release in the Classima collection, this model is distinguished by its 39 mm case made from 18-carat red gold that gives it a touch of warmth and sophistication. It is equipped with a self-winding Soprod 9035 movement adorned with a “Côtes de Genève” motif. The elegant black dial features a straight-line guilloché pattern and gilt hour-markers, complemented by an alligator leather strap in the same shade. The dual time-zone and power-reserve functions, along with the case-back providing a view of the personalized oscillating weight bearing the brand’s PHI symbol, will delight devotees of fine watches.
Movement – Automatic (Soprod 9035), movement adorned. with “Côtes de Genève” décor.
Function – Dual Time, Power reserve, Date at 3 o’clock.
Case – Red gold (22.8 gr. 18 ct), sapphire crystal window case back. Diameter – 39 mm.
Dial – Black, guilloché décor, appliqué indexes & roman numerals.
Water-resistance – 30 m.
Strap – Black alligator.
Buckle – Pin buckle.
Source: Baume & Mercier

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Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second (PRE-SIHH 2011), heritage of tradition

July 14, 2011 1 comment

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A heritage of tradition – Carrying the legacy of Girard-Perregaux’s clean, refined style, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection embodies the Brand’s all-encompassing expertise in creating great watchmaking classics. The latest creation in this line, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second model, with a design of the utmost purity, bears the distinctive hallmarks of a refined timepiece right down to the smallest details.
A modern yet timeless spirit infuses the creations of Girard-Perregaux. The new Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second, with a 40 mm round case, embraces this philosophy perfectly. The design is largely inspired by Girard-Perregaux’s 19th century pocket watches. For a contemporary homage to this secular tradition, it quickly became clear that enamel was the only choice for the dial. The properties of enamel and its special component make the dial it adorns resistant, lending it depth and a unique character.
This traditional technique, now only mastered by a very few experts, consists of fixing the enamel powder and ensuring its harmonious balance through heat during delicate firing stages. Complementing this inspiration are elegant painted Arabic numerals which punctuate the movement of the blued steel leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, while the small second hand marks its path around a counter at 6 o’clock.
This model beats in time to a new automatic movement, developed from the Girard-Perregaux calibre 3300. In line with the Brand’s ongoing quest for excellence, this masterpiece of watch creation offers a modified small second display, just slightly offset to balance the design perfectly. The diversity and richness of the decorations and finishes adorning the multiple components can be seen through a transparent sapphire case-back.
Movement – Girard-Perregaux GP03300-50. Mechanical self-winding movement. Calibre 11 ½ ’’’. Frequency – 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz). Power reserve – Minimum 46 hours. Jewels – 32.
Case – White gold or pink gold. Diameter – 40 mm. Antireflective sapphire crystal. Sapphire case-back. Water resistance – 30 metres.
Functions – Hour, minute, small second.
Dial – «Grand Feu» enamel.
Strap – Alligator strap with ardillon buckle.
Source: Girard-Perregaux

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Richard Mille RM 017 Tourbillon Extra Flat, orologio straordinario

July 7, 2011 Leave a comment

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Richard Mille is offering an extra flat watch, the RM 017 Tourbillon, with a manual wind in an extra flat rectangular case with modern elegant lines. Typifying the brand’s interest in constantly exploring new technical and aesthetic territory, the RM 017 Tourbillon makes its entry into the horological world with an immediate declaration of its unique personality which allies lifestyle with watch making of the highest order.
This highly complex piece has achieved the remarkable feat of combining the technical sophistication of a Richard Mille tourbillion movement with an ultra modern design, all enclosed in a case of a mere 8.7mm total thickness. Allying functionality with comfort and elegance, the RM 017 Tourbillon associates the best of Swiss watch making tradition with innovative and novel solutions, both in the choice of materials and the overall design of the watch.
Nothing has been left to chance in the design of the RM 017 Tourbillon. Each part has been carefully created so that it meets Richard Mille’s requirements in terms of rigidity, reliability and precision.
That’s why the movement plate is made out of grade 2 titanium with a black PVD coating, thus providing the assembly great rigidity and an excellent flatness of surface, essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The ceramic endstone for the tourbillon cage is another technical response to the phenomena of wear and the result of an in-depth study of friction and its effect on the longevity of the components. Always in search of optimal reliability, the RM 017 Tourbillon introduces a barrel pawl with progressive recoil, a system which avoids overtightening of the spring when winding and which removes any risk of knocking the escapement.
The RM 017 Tourbillon makes use once again of the function selector developed by Richard Mille based on a car’s gearbox. The selected mode – winding, neutral or handsetting – is displayed by a needle situated at 4 o’clock.
The marked technical character is set off by a hand polished finish. The case alone is evidence of the attention paid to the smallest detail in the manufacture of its three main components, bezel, case middle and back. Each unpolished case involves 202 separate machining operations. The RM 017 Tourbillon case is evidence of Richard Mille’s overall approach in which movement and case are developed together in total consistency, in order to ensure rigidity and optimal performance. A theme that is dear to the brand, all of whose watches, even the most complicated, can adapt to use in extreme conditions.
The RM 017 Tourbillon manages to associate an architectural design with total ergonomy and comfort. The strap, a perfect fit for the wrist, offers at the same time proportions that are innovative and perfectly balanced, without disturbing the lines in any way.
Limited Edition – 50 pieces.
Caliber RM 017 – manual winding extra flat tourbillon movement with hours, minutes, power reserve, indicator and function indicator.
Dimensions – length 49.80 mm x 38.00 mm x 8.70 mm.
Main features (Many of which are major technical innovations) – Titanium baseplate – These components are manufactured in grade 2 titanium with black PVD coating. As a consequence the whole assembly is given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the geartrain.
Power reserve – Circa 70 hours.
Variable inertia, free sprung balance – The free-sprung balance provides better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly. It also guarantees better chronometric results over an extended period of time.
Fast rotating barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5) – This type of barrel provides the following advantages: – The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance. – Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
Barrel pawl with progressive recoil – This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the start of winding. It is also helpful in the distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
Safety system with blocking gear – This system protects the roller jewel of the balance as well as the winding barrel from possible overwinding.
Function indicator – In a manner similar to a car’s gearbox, the function indicator allows one to see the winding, neutral and hand setting positions as the crown is pulled out. Each position is indicated via a hand at 4 o’clock displaying the following functions: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hands).
Ceramic endstone for the tourbillon cage – This reflects a technical and long-term view towards the elimination of wear phenomena, resulting in improved technical tribology.
Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges – This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion with central involute profile – The central involute profile of the winding barrel teeth and pinion provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°. This promotes effective rotary motion and allows for compensation of possible variations in the engagement of the going train, thus insuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.
Other features – Movement dimensions – 31.20 x 29.45 mm. Thickness – 4.65 mm. Tourbillon diameter – 12.30 mm. Balance wheel diameter – 10 mm. Number of jewels – 23. Balance – Glucydur, 2 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 10 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º. Frequency – 21,600 vph (3 Hz). Balance spring – Elinvar by Nivarox. Torque indicator with reference measurement in dNmm. Shock protection – Kif Elastor KE 160 B28. Stone setting in 2N gold. Barrel shaft in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics – stainless- antimagnetic- suitable for tempering.
Case – It is a counterpoint to the existing collection’s themes of motor sport and sailing, reflected in its discreet lines that are one of the thinnest in the collection, yet with the same wrist fitting curvature and taper as the rest of the assembly it represents a further transformation of the tonneau shape suitable for all occasions. It still retains the same characteristics and attention to detail of case design with numerous stamping and machining operations required for the three main components (bezel, middle section and case back). More than 18 days of machine adjustment are required and more than 400 hours of technical research and drawing before production can even start. Each case requires 202 separate machining operations. The design and execution of this watchcase typifies the complete conceptual approach to all parts of the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to an extremely rigorous specification. For example a casing ring is no longer used and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 4 titanium screws. Features such as these are evidence of uncompromising workmanship. The tripartite case is water resistant to 30 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in copper-nickel-zinc alloy.
Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the case – This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Torque limiting crown in titanium – This additional security system prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage such as winding stem breaking or too much pressure on the barrel spring.
Interior flange – In carbon fibers, with index points filled with approved luminous material.
Dial – In sapphire (thickness: 0.30 mm) with anti-glare treatment (both sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower grooves.
Crystal – Bezel side – In sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness – 1.15 mm. Case back – In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness – At the center 1.05 mm and outer edges 1.39 mm.
Finishing – Movement – Anglage and polishing by hand. Locking sections hand polished. Sapphire blasted milled sections. Lapped and polished contact points. Burnished pivots.
Steel parts – Sapphire blasted surfaces. Anglage and polishing by hand.
Gear wheels – Concave chamfering with a diamond tool. Circular finished faces. Gilding (before cutting the teeth). Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Source: Richard MilleShare this:EmailFaceb

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Romain Jerome Steampunk, segnatempo in edizione limitata

July 5, 2011 Leave a comment

Galvanised by the ever-growing Titanic DNA shock wave, RJ – Romain Jerome has decided to enrich its collection with an explosive timepiece named Steampunk.
The new Steampunk model is born of a high-tension creative impulse and catalyses all the attributes of a devastating personality. Expressed through polished steel paws, pistons and Roman numerals, design becomes a powerful weapon of conviction in this no-holds-barred model.
The entirely dial-free Steampunk is housed within a 50 mm-diameter case providing unobstructed views of the sturdy, rigorously constructed mechanism that naturally commands respect and is held in place by four screwed-down pistons symbolising the RJ’s signature “X” motif.
Imbued with the Steampunk inspiration, the Roman XII and VI numerals are left “raw” and coloured according to the model. These vigorous aesthetic codes energise the upper bridge satin-brushed or circular-grained, depending on the model, by the watchmaking craftsmen at RJ – Romain Jerome. Faithfully reflecting the inimitable Titanic-DNA style, the small seconds is distinguished by its stand-out propeller shape.
The Steampunk features an impressive ability to integrate and optimise the signature features of the DNA collection. With a bezel in stabilised1 oxidised steel secured by four polished steel2 claws, the Steampunk both appeals and reassures.
After a year at the helm of RJ – Romain Jerome, Manuel Emch and his team are thus introducing an exceptional new model. Carved in legend and built to make history, the Steampunk combines the inventive daring and stringent demands of a passionately dedicated and uncompromising creative talent.
Calibre – RJ001-AS. Mechanical self-winding movement. Rate frequency – 28,800 vph. Jewelling – 23 jewels. Power reserve – 42h. Water resistance – 3 atm.
Dial indication – Central hours & minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Case – Ø 50 mm. Steel and black PVD coated steel. “Steampunk” style engraving.
Bezel – Stabilized Titanic rusted steel.
Dial – Dial integrated into the movement. Beadblasted & satin-brushed black gold coloured bridge, with 4 steel pistons & beadblasted rhodiumed bearings Rhodiumed Roman numerals VI and XII, “raw” finishing.
Hands – Rhodiumed & satin-brushed hours & minutes hands, inspired by Titanic’s anchor. Rhodiumed & polished small seconds at 9 o’clock, propeller shape.
Strap – Black rubber with steel folding clasp.
Limited edition – 2,012 pieces.
*The oxidised steel comes from the extraordinary fusion of authentic steel from the wrecked ocean liner lying 3,840 metres below the water, and that supplied by the Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast, where the Titanic was built almost a century ago. A notarized certificate authenticates the origin of the materials used.
*Also available in black PVD-coated or red gold versions, depending on the model.

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Angular Momentum Of Switzerland, Smooth Diver

June 16, 2011 Leave a comment

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Fife-body 1.4435NCu Staybrite steel case alternately polished and brushed, barrel shaped corns and fittings at 12 and 6 o‘clock, 31.400 ct. sapphire crystal, free 360° revolving bezel with two pointers as 15-minute diving time register, bezel fixing screw with luminous cabochon, 8.00 mm sunk in case hand-winding crown with luminous cabochon, Dial solid Email Lumineuse, circular brushed bezel with luminous hour indexes, geometric brushed steel hands for hours, minutes, sweep-second.
Historic hand-winding movement caliber FHF 96 (new-old stock ebauche). Case caliber 41.80 mm, 20 ATM, natural rubber strap.

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