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Hublot Formula 1™ King Power Ceramic [Limited Edition], soltanto 500 esemplari
Dopo lo straordinario successo dei modelli F1 King Power (nelle versioni zirconio e King Gold) e F1™ King Power Tourbillon (anche questo nelle versioni zirconio e King Gold), Hublot ha presentato il terzo modello di questa prestigiosa serie, il F1™ King Power Ceramic.
La ceramica, materiale ideale per l’orologeria, è del 30% più leggera dell’acciaio, totalmente antiallergica, inalterabile e inossidabile. Il F1™ King Power Ceramic, prodotto in un’edizione limitata di 500 esemplari numerati, è un cronografo con due pulsanti (Start e Reset), contatore delle 12 ore alle ore 6 e dei 30 minuti alle ore 3 e piccoli secondi alle ore 9. La cassa da 48 mm di diametro è realizzata in ceramica nera micropallinata.
Sul quadrante spicca il logo ufficiale della Formula 1™ mentre la speciale lunetta in fibra di carbonio è ornata da un esclusivo anello in ceramica traforata che si ispira ai dischi dei freni ad alte prestazioni. Il cinturino, infine, è composto da due strati cuciti con filo rosso: quello interno è in caucciù nero naturale mentre quello esterno è in Nomex™,, una fibra sintetica sviluppata da Dupont De Nemours utilizzata, per la sua bassissima combustibilità, nella produzione delle tute indossate dai piloti.
Il F1™ King Power Ceramic, Orologio Ufficiale della Formula 1™, è il risultato di una stretta e costante collaborazione tra i team di Bernie Ecclestone, CEO del gruppo Formula 1, e di Jean-Claude Biver, CEO di Hublot. Molti elementi del suo design si ispirano visibilmente al mondo della Formula 1™ coniugando un sofisticato know-how e i processi di produzione più innovativi a materiali high tech.
Serie 500 esemplari numerati da 01/500 a 500/500.
Movimento – Calibro HUB4100. Cronografo meccanico a carica automatica. N. di componenti 252. Rubini 27. Ponti – Micropallinati smussati lucidati. Viti PVD nero. Calendario – Finestrella alle ore 4.30. Massa oscillante – PVD nero ricoperto con segmento in carburo di tungsteno pesante. Platina – Rodiata con finitura circolare. Bariletto – A molla rinforzata. Scappamento – Spirale Glucydur. Riserva di carica – Circa 42 ore.
Cassa – King Power – Diametro 48 mm in ceramica nera micropallinata.
Lunetta – Carbonio e ceramica nera ispirata ai dischi dei freni ad alte prestazioni. 6 viti in titanio PVD nero a forma di H in rilievo.
Anse Lunetta – Resina composita nera.
Inserti Laterali – Resina composita nera.
Fondello – Ceramica nera micropallinata.
Corona – Titanio PVD nero con inserti in caucciù nero.
Pulsanti – Start a ore 2 con inserti in caucciù rosso e testo nero e Reset a ore 4, caucciù nero e testo rosso.
Viti – Titanio PVD nero.
Quadrante – Nero opaco a pezzi multipli con indici in nichel nero, SuperLuminova™ rosso e logo Formula 1™ alle ore 12.
Lancette – Nichel nero satinato e SuperLuminova™rosso.
Vetro – Zaffiro con trattamento antiriflesso.
Impermeabilità – 10 ATM o circa 100 metri.
Cinturino – Cinturino regolabile in caucciù nero e Nomex con logo F1TM e cucitura rossa.
Chiusura – Fibbia deployante King Power titanio PVD nero micropallinato, protezione in titanio PVD nero micropallinato, piastra di decorazione in ceramica nera micropallinata.
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time
A longstanding part of the Vacheron Constantin watchmaking heritage, the World Time complication is making a noteworthy comeback to the collections from the Manufacture. The Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time model houses the new Calibre 2460WT bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, this new mechanical self-winding movement is distinguished by its capacity to indicate the world’s 37 time zones, including those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UCT) by a half – or quarter-hour – an exclusive mechanism patented by Vacheron Constantin.
The new Patrimony Traditonnelle World Time by Vacheron Constantin marks the return to the collection of a complication inextricably bound to the history of the Geneva-based manufacturer. The latter is also interwoven with the theme of travel, since Jean-Marc Vacheron and his successors have constantly circled the globe delivering their exceptional timepieces. A pioneer in the development and production of innovative watches, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin has displayed the same approach in being resolutely open to the world at large. Created in 1755 in Geneva and able to look back over more than 255 years of uninterrupted activity, Vacheron Constantin soon began exploring the four corners of the earth. It established a presence in the United States in 1832 and in China in 1845 – well before the International Meridian Conference held in Washington in 1884 which divided the world into 24 time zones, taking the Greenwich meridian as the longitude 0 point of reference. This new approach became indispensable in keeping step with the development of international travel and of railways.
The rich history of World Time at Vacheron Constantin – In keeping with the same pioneering spirit, and driven by a wish to demonstrate that the multiple time-zone watch could be further perfected, Vacheron Constantin introduced its first timepieces endowed with an international time mechanism in 1932. This movement was the work of a brilliant Geneva watchmaker, Louis Cottier, who had imagined and developed a mechanical movement indicating the 24 time zones from 1 to 24 by means of a disc rotating around the central dial and the outer bezel bearing the names of the world’s major cities. This first Vacheron Constantin World Time “Cottier system” watch (reference 3372) enabled simultaneous read-off of the time in 31 cities around the world. It marked the start of a rich and longstanding relationship between Vacheron Constantin and the World Time complication. In 1936, Vacheron Constantin presented two new versions of its World Time model with a 31-city dial (reference 3650) and a 30-city dial (reference 3638) without Cairo. In 1937 and 1938, the Geneva-based Manufacture unveiled six table clocks with a mobile dial featuring 67 locations, including summer and winter time in Paris. From the 1940s onwards, Vacheron Constantin attributed the reference number 4414 to a world time model with a 41-city dial and a day/night division of the mobile 24-hour disc. During the 1940s and 1950s, many famous customers were captivated by this useful and ingenious mechanism, and contributed to spreading the fame of this new complication.
In 1957, Vacheron Constantin wrote a new chapter in its history of World Time watches by introducing the first World Time wristwatch, reference 6213, ordered by an Egyptian dignitary. It was the first of a long line of models incorporating this remarkable complication and that earned it an outstanding reputation among connoisseurs and collectors.
A patented new World Time calibre – Eager to make a major new contribution to the history of this complication, the Vacheron Constantin master-watchmakers and engineers have sought to create a mechanical movement capable of indicating not only the full time zones, but also the partial ones, so as to reflect the exact temporal reality in the 37 time zones. A number of countries have indeed adopted a half-hour or quarter-hour difference from UTC, and the Calibre 2460WT by Vacheron Constantin takes account of these specific characteristics. By way of example, it provides the correct time indication for Caracas, since Venezuela decided in 2007 to switch from a full time zone to a half time zone (GMT – 4:30).
The indication of the 37 time zones as proposed by Vacheron Constantin in its Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time is as complete as one could wish for. The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with a unique day/night shading; a metal dial with a “Lambert projector” type map; and a metal chapter ring. Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, mechanical self-winding Calibre 2460WT drives displays of the hours, minutes, central seconds and World Time. It enables simultaneous read-off of the time in all regions of the world, along with the day/night indication provided by the central world map. All indications are adjusted via the crown, thus considerably simplifying the use of this highly technical watch. In light of these exclusive developments, a patent has been filed for the new Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460WT bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.
Appreciable user friendliness – Despite its complex construction principles, the new mechanical World Time movement is extremely user-friendly. The wearer chooses the reference time and places it opposite the black triangle at 6 o’clock. The time in the reference location can then be read off either by the hour hand, or by the 24-hour disc, while the time in the other 36 time zones is simultaneously readable. The cities shown in black represent the full time zones, while the cities in red indicate half-hour or quarter-hour zones.
Incorporating all the signature characteristics of the collection – a slender bezel, a knurled motif on the case-back, a screw-down sapphire crystal case-back, and dauphine hands – the new Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time comes with a 42.5 mm diameter 18K pink gold case that is water-resistant to 30 metres. It is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap secured by an 18K pink gold folding clasp.
Due to the modern nature of this useful complication, along with the major innovations provided by its Calibre 2460WT, the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time is destined to become an iconic model within the collection, and to perpetuate Vacheron Constantin’s pioneering role in the development of multiple time-zone watches.
Movement – Calibre 2460 WT, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva. Energy – Mechanical, self-winding. Movement – Diameter 36.60 mm (11’’’ ¼). Movement thickness – 8.10 mm. Jewels 27. Frequency – 4Hz (28’800 Vibrations/hour). Power reserve – Approximately 40 hours.
Indications – Hours, minutes and center seconds. World time indication with day/night zone (37 time zones).
Case – 18K 5N Pink gold. 42.50 mm in diameter. Open-worked back with transparent sapphire crystal.
Dial – The display is made of 3 dials: 1 dial in sapphire with day / night indication in the center, 24-hour indications inked & engraved. 1 dial in metal with “Lambert Projection” type map and transfered cities names. 1 externalring in metal with transferred minute-track and gold applied hour-markers.
Water-Resistance – 3 bar (about 30 meters).
Strap – Brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scaled Mississippiensis alligator leather.
Clasp – 18K 5N pink gold triple blade folding clasp. Polished half Maltese Cross.
Source: Vacheron Constantin
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea
There are some watches that leave an indelible trace on our collective memory because they have written a page in history. The Memovox Deep Sea, the first diver’s watch ever made by the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, undoubtedly belongs to the select circle of such milestone instruments. After presenting in 2008 two faithful interpretations of historical diver’s watches, the Memovox Tribute to Polaris 1965 and the Memovox Tribute to Polaris 1968, the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux is pursuing its journey through time and returning to the very roots of the diver’s watch by introducing a re-edition of the 1959 Memovox Deep Sea, logically named Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea. The distinctive characteristic of the original model lay in the fact that it was interpreted in two versions: one intended for European sports enthusiasts and the other for American divers. In homage to its rich past and to the delight of fine watchmaking connoisseurs, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is unveiling a faithful limited-series re-edition of the two 1959 Memovox Deep Sea models.
Rebirth of an icon – The Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea faithfully replicates the original model, except in one respect: the stainless steel case has been slightly enlarged from 39.8 to 40.5 mm in order to match contemporary requirements – and wrists. The case-back carries the motif appearing on the 1959 watch, featuring a frogman surrounded by bubbles. And, as one would expect from a new creation paying homage to its illustrious predecessors, the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea also comes in two versions, each bearing the appearance of one of the historical variations. While the European model features a matt black dial with luminescent hour-markers, its American counterpart is distinguished by a two-tone black/grey execution surrounded by an external ring comprising a scale with five-minute graduations and simply signed “LeCoultre”. The two versions offer the same range of functions: hours, minutes, central seconds and an alarm. A crown at 2 o’clock serves to wind and set the alarm, while another at 4 o’clock is used to wind the movement and set the time. Both models are driven by Memovox Calibre 956, an automatic movement incorporating the latest technological developments from the Manufacture and which has decisively demonstrated its reliability over the years. This descendant of the first manually-wound Memovox calibre beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 45-hour power reserve.
The first diver’s watch instrument – In the early 1950s, humankind was fervently dedicated to building a new world. Modern individuals were dynamic and intrepid, embodying the values of a future-oriented era and keen to set off on the discovery of new territories focusing on the unexplored heart of continents, the infinity of the cosmos, and the ocean depths. In 1957 the USSR launched the first artificial satellite of the Earth. A few months earlier, Jacques-Yves Cousteau and Louis Malle had unveiled the fascinating mysteries of underwater life in the film entitled The Silent World and which was acclaimed by critics at the Cannes Film Festival and subsequently by the public at large. Commander Cousteau’s passion was soon shared by a growing number of eager scuba diving fans, especially once the simultaneous invention of a revolutionary diving bottle fostered the spread of this promising young discipline. A new kind of sports enthusiast emerged, requiring instruments suited to the exercise of their recently developed passion and able to help them successfully undertake their adventurous missions below the sea.
In order to meet demand from American enthusiasts of this booming sport, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a daring project in 1959 involving the development of a diver’s watch. This represented largely uncharted territory at the time, with no criteria stipulating the demands that should be met by this unprecedented category of timepieces, and almost 20 years were to elapse before the adoption of the NIHS norms applicable to diver’s watches. The watchmakers and technicians of the Manufacture immediately set to work and that same year presented a watch endowed with a degree of reliability and performances that were truly exceptional in that early period of underwater exploration. The Memovox Deep Sea was the world’s first diver’s watch equipped with an alarm function. Jaeger-LeCoultre engineers devoted the full measure of their inventive skills to transforming the alarm generally featured on Memovox watches into an acoustic signal designed to warn divers that it was time to begin their progressive ascent to the surface. In keeping with an essential principle consistently upheld by the Manufacture, functionality was already dedicated to serving security.
The new timepiece in both versions met with spectacular success on either side of the Atlantic. This iconic diver’s watch soon sold out and became a legend of which only a rare few collectors were able to glimpse the reality.
The Memovox tribute to Deep Sea is issued in two limited series: 959 reproducing the “Jaeger-LeCoultre Classique 1959” intended for the European market; and 359 inspired by the “LeCoultre Spécial Amérique 1959”. The last two digits of each edition echo the birth year of this legendary watch. And finally, driven by a determination to pay homage to one of the treasures of the company heritage, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have chosen to protect the dial of the Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea with a Plexiglas watch glass absolutely identical to that which equipped the historical models – exactly the kind of detail that connoisseurs will appreciate at its true worth.
Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea Replica of the “Jaeger-LeCoultre Classique 1959” –
Movement – Mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calirbe 956, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 28,800 vibrations per hour. 23 jewels. 7.45 mm high. 268 parts. 45-hour power reserve.
Functions – Hours, minutes, central seconds and alarm.
Dial – Matt black with luminescent hour-markers. Alarm indication by a triangle with a luminescent centre.
Case – Steel. 40.5 mm in diameter. Convex plexiglas watch glass. Water-resistance – 10 bar.
Strap – Black leather with steel pin buckle.
Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea Replica of the “LeCoultre Spécial Amérique 1959” –
Movement – Mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 28,800 vibrations per hour. 23 jewels. 7.45 mm high. 268 parts. 45-hour power reserve.
Functions – Hours, minutes, central seconds and alarm.
Dial – Matt black and grey. Alarm indication by a triangle with a luminescent centre.
Case – Steel. 40.5 mm in diameter. Convex plexiglas watch glass. Water-resistance – 10 bar.
Strap – Black leather with steel pin buckle.
Source: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Audemars Piguet Millenary 4101, beauty and sophistication
Above and beyond the first impression of technical beauty and sophistication, this watch sparks natural curiosity. Is it a skeletonised watch? No, it did not involve openworking the movement parts to let the light through. So has the dial simply been pierced in order to reveal part of the mechanism? Not exactly, and nor was it just a matter of making openings in the mainplate so as to see through it. In any case, one thing is for sure: the watchmakers from Le Brassus have accomplished the feat of putting an object on your wrist that is more movement than watch.
They are thereby fulfilling the dream of all watchmaking devotees: extracting the fine mechanism from the cavity of its case to reveal it in all its splendour. This means there is no longer any need to turn the watch over to admire the movement through a sapphire crystal caseback, because the movement of the Millenary 4101 has actually been built to show itself face upwards. An intriguing notion that is sure to satisfy the curiosity of the most discerning aesthetes and connoisseurs! This fascinating spectacle is staged within the perimeter of a shaped case – and not just any case, but the voluptuous and sophisticated oval that makes the Millenary collection so truly unique.
Revealing the beating heart of the watch – Have you ever savoured the magic of certain homes in which the surrounding garden seems to be an integral part of the living areas, as if the foliage of the trees extended into the lounge, and the settee and coffee table appear to be set amongst the greenery? The Millenary 4101 exercises the same fascination as this holistic architecture. It blurs the borders between inside and outside. It overturns existing ideas, and in particular that which holds that the design involves the exterior of the watch – dial, case and wristband – and thus its outer garment, while the inside is essentially functional. Things are very different on this model, in which the inside and outside form a seamless whole merging functionality and design. In terms of development and production, this naturally implies intense cooperation between the teams at work, resulting in two highly original models, one in stainless steel with a black crocodile leather strap, and the other in pink gold with a brown crocodile leather strap, and both masterfully combining form and content.
Calibre 4101, entirely designed, developed and produced in-house, was built in such a way that the elements normally concealed on the back are now visible from the front. The regulating organ – composed of the balance, lever and escapement – has been reworked in order to meet this goal. It is located at 9 o’clock and offers a truly eye-catching sight. Its variable-inertia balance asserts a powerful presence with its eight inertia-blocks, its golden colour and the distinctive aesthetic of its cross-through bridge. The discerning eye will even detect the lever and the escape-wheel.
Moreover, no less than 12 bridges have been cleverly arranged on the surface of the movement. In addition to their functional role, which consists in holding the various parts in place, they also serve as attractive design elements, including by tracing three beautiful parallel curves on the dial side. Their decorative motifs – horizontal Côtes de Genève, circular graining; and snailing on the “trottoirs” – play with the different movement levels to accentuate the contrasts and depth effects. The screws on the left-hand side of the dial underscore the oval shape of the case and create a more technical and richer overall impression. The same goes for the hemispherical convex and particularly sparkling jewels punctuating the 10, 11 and 12 o’clock numerals on the dial.
In this manner, various elements relating to the movement structure and its functional role in fact play a premier role in the overall aesthetic appeal of the watch. They merge as one with the signature characteristics of the Millenary collection represented by the oval case subtly accentuated by the contrast between the brushed case middle and the polished bezel, as well as the offset subdial with Roman numerals. The watch is thus viewed as a sophisticated whole distinguished by its three-dimensional, high-tech design. The Millenary 4101 thereby pursues an exploratory process that began several years ago and has been exemplified through models such as the Tradition d’Excellence N°5, the Millenary with deadbeat seconds and the Millenary MC 12.
Reliability, timing precision and finishing quality – The oval Calibre 4101, as we have seen, is distinguished by an ingenious structural approach that turns the parts upside down and plays a key role in the overall design of the watch. Nonetheless, these visual qualities must not eclipse its excellent reliability. The heart of the movement is a variable-inertia balance with eight white gold inertia-weights that ensures improved long-term rating stability. Equipped with a Breguet balance-spring, it beats at an oscillation frequency of 4 Hz, meaning 28,800 vibrations per hour. This oscillation frequency, along with the higher inertia of the balance, improves the timing precision and also makes the regulating organ less sensitive to external disturbing factors. The cross-through balance-bridge ensures improved shock resistance due to the fact that it is secured not just on one side, but on either side of the mainplate.
Winding is ensured by a 22-carat gold oscillating weight mounted on ceramic ball bearings. The reverser mechanism ensuring bidirectional winding is also composed of a ceramic ball-bearing system. An effective antidote to wear and also useful in avoiding any locking, the system is conducive to optimal winding speed. The mainspring thus wound is able to release its energy in a more regular manner and to positively influence rating precision.
Hand-decorated and assembled in the Le Brassus workshops, Calibre 4101 boasts exceptionally high-quality execution and finishing. The movement of the steel version has an elegantly understated colour achieved by an anthracite galvanic treatment, while that of the pink gold version is rhodiumed and gilded. The bridges are meticulously bevelled and polished so as to display only clean-cut, gleaming edges. The jewel sinks are diamond-polished. The wheels have bevelled spokes and diamond-polished sinks. Even the screw rim and slots are bevelled. The mainplate is decorated on both sides: Côtes de Genève on the front and circular-graining in two different sizes on the back in order to create greater contrast and depth effects. The bridges on the dial side feature horizontal Côtes de Genève, snailing and circular graining, while the bridges on the back are distinguished by circular Côtes de Genève, snailing and circular graining. Finally, the 22-carat gold oscillating weight is adorned with the Audemars and Piguet family crests and the AP monogram.
Movement – Proprietary selfwinding Calibre 4101. Overall dimensions – (width/length: 37.25 x 32.90 mm). Casing diameter – (width/length: 36.75 x 32 mm). Thickness: 7.46 mm. 34 jewels. 253 parts. Bidirectional winding 22-carat gold oscillating weight mounted on ceramic ball bearings. 60-hour power reserve. Cadence of the balance: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Variable-inertia balance with eight inertia-blocks and Breguet overcoil balance-spring. Screw-down mobile balance-spring stud-holder.
Finishing – All parts decorated by hand; mainplate adorned with horizontal Côtes de Genève on the front and circular-grained on the back; bridges rhodiumed, bevelled, snailed and adorned with horizontal and circular Côtes de Genève and with circular graining: Diamond-polished jewel sinks; diamond-polished countersinks and bevelled wheel spokes; bevelled screw rims and slots. AP monogram as well as Audemars and Piguet family crests engraved on the oscillating weight.
Functions – Hours and minutes. Small seconds.
Cases – Stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold. Dimensions – (width/length: 47 x 42 mm). Thickness 13 mm. Sapphire crystal caseback.
Dials – Directly fixed to the bridges. Black and anthracite with applied pink gold Roman numerals. Pink gold hands.
Water resistance – 20 m.
Straps – Hand-sewn black or brown crocodile leather with large square scales, secured by an AP folding clasp in stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold.
Source: Audemars Piguet
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Bell&Ross BR 01 Red Radar [Limited Edition], percezione inedita del lusso
Ispirato Ai Radar Del Controllo Aereo
Nel 2010 il BR 01 Radar di Bell & Ross offriva una nuova percezione del tempo proponendo una modalità di lettura inedita, ispirata a uno strumento aereo: il radar.
Nella sua costante ricerca di innovazione e di performance, Bell & Ross propone nel 2011 una nuova interpretazione della sua visualizzazione a radar spingendo ancora oltre i mimetismi dello strumento originale.
La lettura analogica del BR 01 Red Radar riprende quella del radar di controllo aereo con un realismo di grande impatto. La sua grafica mette in evidenza l’effetto dei fasci luminosi di un vero e proprio schermo radar. Questa nuova versione stravolge nuovamente i tradizionali codici di lettura dell’ora:
– Le lancette e il quadrante si fondono su uno stesso piano. Al loro posto, tre dischi concentrici indipendenti sono contrassegnati da 3 fasci rossi. Alla base di questi fasci luminosi dal progressivo dégradé di colore possono leggere le ore, i minuti e i secondi a mano a mano che l’occhio si sposta verso il centro del quadrante.
– Sul vetro di colore rosso, due assi graduati e gli indici indicano la misurazione del tempo.
– La scelta del rosso sul fondo nero opaco antiriflesso del quadrante e della cassa ripropone gli schermi delle sale di controllo aereo offrendo un suggestivo contrasto che permette una leggibilità ottimale.
Una Prodezza Tecnica
Nonostante la sua apparente semplicità, il BR 01 Red Radar è un orologio altamente sofisticato. La sfida tecnica posta dalla sua concezione e la sua realizzazione hanno richiesto la collaborazione dei migliori ingegneri orologiai.
– Poiché ciascun disco pesa 30 volte il peso di una lancetta, si è reso necessario creare dei dischi ultraleggeri per non diminuire la riserva di carica, né la precisione dell’orologio. Inoltre, ogni disco è stato reso sufficientemente resistente per non deformarsi e non rischiare il minimo attrito. Questa doppia sfida ha richiesto la messa a punto di materiali specifici e di nuove tecniche.
– Durante la rotazione, una regolazione alla precisione di un micron garantisce in modo costante il parallelismo dei dischi. La precisione del montaggio esige tutto il know-how dei maestri orologiai.
Con il BR 01 Red Radar, Bell & Ross supera, ancora una volta, il classico concetto di lettura dell’ora, rispettando in maniera fedele la visualizzazione degli schermi del controllo aereo.
Edizione Limitata a 999 esemplari.
Movimento – Meccanico automatico ETA 2892. Sistema di lettura mediante dischi.
Funzioni – Ore, minuti, secondi.
Cassa – Diametro 46 mm. Acciaio con finiture PVD nero. Corona a vite.
Quadrante-Indici – Lettura del tipo «schermo radar», composta da 3 dischi neri concentrici. La marcatura sul disco esterno indica le ore, quella sul disco intermedio i minuti e quella sul disco centrale i secondi.
Vetro – Minerale, tinto di rosso, rinforzato da uno strato di protezione. Ore e minuti graduati.
Impermeabilità – 100 metri.
Cinturini – Caucciù e tela sintetica ultraresistente.
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic
The new Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin is entirely in line with the brand’s DNA and sets a new record for the world’s thinnest self-winding tourbillon watch measuring a mere 10.4 mm. This daringly contemporary creation also makes a point of overturning traditional watchmaking codes.
This model is a powerful expression of the Piaget genetic heritage: unique competence in the field of ultrathin watchmaking, combined with a determination to develop consistently innovative and creative complicated calibres. Drawing upon the qualities of both Piaget Calibre 600P – the world’s thinnest handwound tourbillon movement – and Piaget Calibre 1208P – the world’s thinnest self-winding movement equipped with a micro-rotor – Calibre 1270P, Piaget’s first ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon movement measuring just 5.55 mm thick, offers a combination of technical and aesthetic innovations.
The new Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin watch features the slimmest profile on the market, with a case measuring just 10.4 mm thick. It is thus completely in tune with Piaget’s major breakthroughs and innovations that have had a lasting influence on the world of Haute Horlogerie.
This exceptional capacity for innovation stems above all from an exceptional wealth of experience. For half a century, Piaget has been writing some of the finest chapters in the history of ultra-thin movements, a field in which it has played a pioneering role. In 1957, Piaget caused a sensation by developing Calibre 9P, an ultrathin mechanical hand-wound movement. Two years later, Piaget filed a patent for Calibre 12P, which set a record for slimness in the category of self-winding movements. Building on this historical legitimacy, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has constantly pursued its groundbreaking work in the highly technical segment of ultra-thin movements. Out of a total of 29 movements developed by Piaget, the new Calibre 1270P is the 17th ultra-thin mechanism. This expertise in ultra-thin watchmaking has also given rise to complicated calibres (the 600P shaped tourbillon, 880P chronograph and 855P perpetual calendar movements). In 2010, Piaget celebrated the 50th anniversary of the commercialisation of the legendary Calibre 12P in due style by presenting Calibres 1200P (hours and minutes) and 1208P (hours, minutes and small seconds), the thinnest mechanical self-winding movements on the market at just 2.35 mm thick, a first record. They were integrated within the new 43 mm Altiplano case and thereby set a second record for the thinnest watch in its category (5.25 mm).
In presenting its new self-winding tourbillon Calibre 1270P, the culmination of a three-year development process, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget is taking an additional step in this field of excellence represented by ultra-thin mechanical movements.
The cushion-shaped 1270P movement is the epitome of authentic fine watchmaking, housed within an identically shaped case. One of the most emblematic complications, the self-winding tourbillon – complete with its gold micro-rotor – thereby finds a new expression in this Calibre 1270P. In addition to the technical feat of producing an extremely complex 269-part mechanism in such diminutive dimensions – some gear wheels are a mere 0.12 mm thick! – this Calibre 1270P is distinguished by an exceptional aesthetic appeal that reveals the eminently modern nature of the Piaget Emperador Coussion Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin.
This new timepiece in the Piaget Emperador collection is making its mark on this iconic line in the Black Tie collection thanks to a powerful design and a decidedly avant-garde character. Confidently overturning the established codes of fine watchmaking, this model offers a dial-side view – through the laser-engraved sapphire crystal – of the most fascinating mechanical components, from automatic winding through to handfitting. The offset micro-rotor in gold can thus be freely admired, entwined with the imposing and equally offset tourbillon carriage to form a figure 8, the ultimate lucky number. Meanwhile, the offset hour and minute hands appear at 5 o’clock. The meticulous finishing of the movement is also visible through the sapphire crystal. The design codes inherent to Black Tie models are also interpreted in an elegantly contemporary manner including laser guilloché work on the dial, tapered hour-markers pointing towards the offset hand-fitting, as well as the beautifully highlighted gold-rimmed oscillating weight and tourbillon displays. The resolutely modern overall tone is subtly counter-balanced by the traditional Haute Horlogerie decoration of the micro-rotor, guilloché-worked and adorned with the Piaget coat-of-arms.
This decision to present a transparent view of the mechanism through the dial side is a further demonstration of the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget’s wish to place fully mastered technical expertise in the service of design.
Like all the new complicated movements from the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget, this concentrated blend of technologies and innovations is housed within a generously sized cushion-shaped Emperador case in 18-carat pink or white gold, measuring 46.5 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 3ATM (approximately 30 metres). The solid case-back, engraved with the Piaget coat-of-arms and the Calibre 1270P reference, features two openings: one for the power-reserve indication, and the other to provide a view of the tourbillon carriage. This new Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap secured by an 18-carat gold folding clasp.
While displaying its finest expertise expressed in such a resolutely modern way, the new Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin also sets a new record in the brand’s favourite field of ultra-thin watchmaking.
Movement – Manufacture Piaget 1270P ultra-thin mechanical self-winding tourbillon movement.
Movement thickness – 5.55 mm. Dimensions – 15 ’’’ ½ (34.9 mm x 34.9 mm). Jewels 35. Vibrations – 21,600 vibrations/hour. Off-centred tourbillon carriage at 1 o’clock. Weight of tourbillon carriage – 0.2 g (3 titanium bridges). Thickness of tourbillon carriage – 2.8 mm. White or pink gold micro-rotor, off-centred at 10 o’clock. Power reserve – Approximately 40 hours, displayed on the case-back.
Functions – Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve. Off-centred hour indication at 4 o’clock.
Case – 46.5 mm. World’s thinnest self-winding tourbillon watch (10.4 mm). 18-carat white or pink gold watch. Laser-printed glass dial revealing the movement. Tapering hour-markers pointing towards an off-centred dial.
Finishing – Circular Côtes de Genève (back), sunburst satin-brushed guilloché mainplate (face); sunburst, bevelled and hand-drawn bridges (face); circular satin-brushed wheels; sunburst satin-brushed barrel cover; blued screws; gold guilloché oscillating weight engraved with Piaget coat-of-arms, polished “P” on the tourbillon carriage, hand-bevelled carriage arms.
Clasp – 18-carat white or pink gold folding clasp.
Strap – Black alligator leather strap.
Source: Piaget
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Open Power Reserve, magic perfection
The Chronomaster Open model leaves no-one indifferent. The open dial – a Zenith creation – lets one see into the perfectly synchronized pulsations and the magic of the mechanism in what is today unanimously considered as the “best serial movement in the world” for its performance and its chronometric reliability. Its secret lies in its number of vibrations, which is 25% higher than in other movements on the market. Whereas other timepieces make 8 vibrations per second, the El Primero caliber makes 10 in the same time. Over and above the aesthetic success of this open-heart operation – the Open concept is the realization of technical prowess: to make the regulating organ visible, it has been moved to 10 o’clock, on the edge of the movement.
The great watchmaking tradition – Everything here evokes the great tradition of watchmaking: a column-wheel chronograph mechanism; a power reserve indicator; a rhodium-plated plate, circular-graining and chamfered bridges; strokes drawn on the hammers, levers and conveyors; oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” guilloché work; revelation of the Zenith star through skeleton work and tachometric scale on the flanges that harks back to the chronographs used in the first automobile races. One can only admire the attention to detail.
Aesthetic daring – The Chronomaster Open displays an avant-garde design with highly finished features. This aspect is important in the choice of a watch, one of the only pieces of jewelry worn by men, an accessory that identifies and highlights his personality. Zenith communicates the image of a highly technical brand that is intended for connoisseurs of high-precision watchmaking.
Variations – Using the design codes of the past to interpret contemporary models, the Chronomaster Open is based on a century and a half of watchmaking expertise. The Open model exists in four different versions: a silver or black sun-burst dial in a steel case or silver sun-burst dial in an 18-carat rose gold case or in a rose gold and steel case. The markers and the three hands for the hours, minutes and small seconds are facetted, rhodium-plated, and hand-set. The central hand of the chronograph, the hand for the 30-minute counter and for the power reserve have a blued finish. The curve of the hands that decorate the dial is executed with precise handwork. The Chronomaster Open model belongs to Zenith’s “Iconic” family.
Movement – El Primero 4021P, Automatic. Caliber – 13 1/4 “` (Diameter: 30 mm). Height 7.85 mm. Parts 248. Jewels 39. Frequency – 36,000 V/h – (5 Hz). Power reserve – Approximately 50h.
Regulator assembly with fine adjustment. Central rotor on ball bearings. Automatic winding in both directions. Rapid date reset. Chronograph function. Chronograph control center via column wheel.
Decoration – Rhodium-plated platinum. “Côtes de Genève” or circular graining and chamfering on the bridges. Strokes drawn on the hammers, levers and conveyors.
Oscillating weight – Metal oscillating weight with guilloché work in a “Côtes de Genève” motif and revelation of the Zenith star through skeleton work.
Functions – Central hours and minutes. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. Second chronograph counter in the center. 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. Power-reserve indicator in the center.
Case – Diameter 42 mm. Crystal – Sapphire glass treated with anti-reflection on both sides. Case back – Transparent sapphire glass.
Water resistance – 10 ATM / 100 meters.
Available models – Available in steel, 18-carat two-toned or rose gold with silver or black sun-burst dial and a brown or black alligator-skin strap.
Source: Zenith
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Second, mechanical revolution
World First: TAG Heuer introduces the first ever column wheel integrated mechanical chronograph displaying the 1/100th of a second with a striking central hand allowing an easy reading: the Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Second Chronograph. Entirely designed, patented, developed and manufactured in La Chaux-De-Fonds, “TAG Heuer Haute Horlogerie” workshop also crafting the Monaco V4, this new major innovation from TAG Heuer confirms the company 150 years leadership in mastering ultimate accuracy, speed and high complexity mechanical movements.
5 years only after the revolutionary Calibre 360 Chronograph, TAG Heuer literally re-invents the high frequency dual assortment mechanical movements and pays a tribute to the legendary Heuer Mikrograph stopwatch of 1916 which made history for more than 50 years in timing high speed sports with its 25 and 50 hertz frequencies.
With 2 assortments, 62 jewels and 396 components, the Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Second Chronograph is new a masterpiece of “Haute Horlogerie Suisse” setting a new milestone in grandes complications.
Like the Calibre 360, the Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Second Chronograph features two different balance wheels, with separate escapements and transmission systems that allow to engage the stopwatch performance without interference to the watch movement.
However, unlike the Calibre 360 which was modular, the new Mikrograph 1/100th is a fully integrated COSC certified chronograph with a column wheel system. It comprises a balance wheel for the watch moving at 4 hertz, 28’800 vibrations per hour, with a 42-hour power reserve; for the stopwatch, the high frequency Swiss balance wheel oscillates at 50 hertz, 360’000 vibrations per hour, with a 90-minute power reserve, displaying this 1/100th of a second with the central chronograph hand. A transparent sapphire crystal case back allows a direct and stunning view of the two “hearts” beating at different speeds and facing each other at the bottom of the complex movement endowed with sophisticated Côte de Genève finishes.
TAG Heuer’s timekeeping heritage is peerless. It is fuelled by the distinction between just fractions of a second, when the performance of speed-driven professionals is at stake.
In 1916, TAG Heuer developed the Mikrograph, the first sports stopwatch accurate to 1/50th and 1/100th of a second when other timing instruments could only measure to the nearest 1/5th of a second. This technical innovation changed the future of racing events management, by gaining greater accuracy of a second – a mere moment that can count for everything between striving professionals. This groundbreaking core technology catapulted Heuer ahead as official timekeeper to the world’s most prominent competitive sporting events ever since.
Available in a rose gold limited edition of 150 timepieces only, the new Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Second Chronograph brings this original stopwatch innovation to the wrists of modern motor-racing enthusiasts who seek ultimate precision. Until now, the wristwatch and stopwatch were separate instruments because of their differing performance objectives: the wristwatch is like a marathon runner, slow but with endurance, while the stopwatch is like a sprinter, fast but in bursts of activity. If they drew upon the same gear for their differing intensities, such a traditional chronograph movement would wear quickly.
With the Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Second Chronograph limited edition, TAG Heuer celebrates in style “150 years of mastering speed”.
Essential technical elements that make this timepiece different:
– First chronograph with a central 100th-of-a-second hand turning one revolution per second and 100 jumps per second (3 times faster than on the historical Heuer model). There is no visible tremor during rotation.
– Dual control system: one for chronograph functions and one for setting watch time. It’s the first 100th of a second wrist-worn stopwatch.
– Extremely easy-to-read chronograph scale on the outside edge of the dial indicating tenths and hundreds of a second.
– Chronograph control with column wheel.
– Unlike a conventional chronograph, the time base is not dependent on the watch (hence the name “stopwatch”). Chronograph functions can be start or stopped independently of watch functions.
– The chronograph’s power reserve is independent of the watch’s (two separated cylinders).
– Automatic winding of the watch by means of a circular oscillating weight. Chronograph winding is done manually (once is 90-minute power reserve is depleted). Winding the chronograph also winds the watch — both barrels are wound at the same time.
– Chronograph power reserve display by full scale of 120° (the 90-minute-power reserve on a scale from 0 to 100%).
– Chronograph second counter at 6 o’clock.
– Chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock.
– Small seconds counter at 9 o’clock.
– The wide spacing of the counters with respect to the centre makes for excellent readability.
– Semi-perpetual date window at 6 o’clock with rapid date correction with crown in middle position.
– 42-hour power reserve for the watch and 90-minute power reserve for the chronograph.
– The two balance wheels (4Hz clock and 50Hz chronograph) are visible through the open case back.
– The stop second enables watch time to be set to the nearest second.
Movement dimension – Total diameter: 35.8 mm (15 3/4’’’). Total height: 7.95mm.
Frequency – 2 balance wheels: 28’800 vibrations per hour/ 4 hertz (watch). 360’000 vibrations per hour/ 50 hertz (chronograph).
Jewels – 62.
Power reserve – 42 hours watch power reserve. 90 minutes chronograph power reserve.
Property of display – Hours. Minutes. Central 1/100th chronograph second. Chronograph minute at 3 o’clock. Chronograph second at 6 o’clock. Small second at 9 0’clock . Date at 6 o’clock. Power reserve at 12 o’clock.
Mechanical features – 1/100th second chronograph function. 2 balance wheels. Automatic bi-directionnal rewinding movement. Calendar. Stop second (during setting the hour).
Source: TAG Heuer
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Hublot Oceanographic 4000 [Limited Edition], orologio subacqueo impressionante
Hublot presenta, in collaborazione con il Museo Oceanografico di Monaco, il primo orologio subacqueo in grado di resistere alla pressione record di 4.000 metri di profondità.
È un orologio simbolo. Quello dei 4.000. Destinato a stabilire i nuovi limiti del razionale, del possibile. Sono occorsi 18 mesi di ricerche, sviluppo e test per presentare oggi l’Oceanographic 4000, un orologio in grado di scendere ad una profondità di 4.000 metri: una pressione estrema, un eccezionale livello tecnologico.
Per la prima volta, il celebre Museo Oceanografico di Monaco, con l’Istituto Oceanografico Fondation Albert 1er Prince de Monaco, enti noti in tutto il mondo per lo studio, la ricerca e la conservazione degli oceani, ha accettato di essere rappresentato ad un orologio. Un vero simbolo.
E così, il 6 giugno 2011, alla presenza del Principe HRH Alberto II di Monaco, Robert Calcagno, CEO di Institut Océanographique, Sir Alex Ferguson e di Jean-Claude Biver, CEO di Hublot, al centro del principale acquario di Monaco destinato alla salvaguardia delle specie e degli animali marini, verrà presentato ufficialmente l’“Oceanographic 4000”.
Decidendo di sostenere il Museo Oceanografico di Monaco, Hublot ha scelto non solo di rendere omaggio alla storia e all’eccezionale patrimonio del prestigioso istituto monegasco, ma anche di sostenere attivamente lo studio e la salvaguardia degli oceani, partecipando finanziariamente alle missioni e ai rilevamenti scientifici dell’istituto.
Il primo appuntamento ufficiale nell’ambito di questa partnership sarà la “DEEP SEA Conference” prevista per il 13 ottobre prossimo presso l’Istituto Oceanografico di Parigi. Hublot ne è il principale sponsor.
Questo orologio, un vero e proprio strumento dotato di tecnologia all’avanguardia e di un’ergonomia orientata all’efficacia e alla facilità di interazione, è stato concepito e ideato per spingere sempre più in là i limiti del possibile.
Le caratteristiche dell’Oceanographic 4000 sono in massima parte eccezionali, sia per progettazione che per sviluppo e realizzazione. Per ottenere la qualifica di “orologio subacqueo” resistente alla pressione record di 4.000 metri, l’orologio ha dovuto soddisfare precise caratteristiche, definite dalle norme internazionali dell’orologeria svizzera (NIHS).
A cominciare dall’impermeabilità, controllata presso Hublot in vasca Roxer, immerso e sottoposto alla pressione equivalente di 5.000 metri di profondità. Al fine di garantire l’impermeabilità dell’orologio e permettegli di resistere a questa pressione estrema, il vetro zaffiro di sintesi ha uno spessore di 6,5 mm, superiore al normale ma comunque relativamente ragionevole considerato il livello di resistenza. Il fondello della cassa è a vite, la conditio sine qua non per raggiungere gli abissi. È realizzato in titanio grado 2, un materiale inossidabile estremamente resistente.
Grazie alla realizzazione della cassa in titanio o in fibra di carbonio, nella versione All Black, due materiali noti per l’estrema leggerezza e le caratteristiche tecniche adatte a queste specifiche, l’Oceanographic 4000 rimane leggero al polso nonostante i 48 mm di diametro e il volume notevole.
Per quanto riguarda la luminosità, l’ora e il tempo misurati dal réhaut, devono essere leggibili ad una distanza di 25 cm in condizioni di oscurità. Al fine di soddisfare questa esigenza, quadrante, réhaut e lancette dell’Oceanographic 4000 sono stati ottimizzati in modo da poter estendere la superficie rivestita di SuperLuminova™, una sostanza luminescente che emette un colore verde nella versione titanio.
La lettura è garantita dal réhaut unidirezionale a cremagliera che ruota all’interno, con indicatore del tempo di immersione. L’indicazione del tempo di immersione più vicina al quadrante consente di ridurre al minimo il rischio di modifica involontaria di questo parametro, oltre a renderne la lettura più comoda. Conformemente alla norma, il dispositivo dell’Oceanographic 4000 è dotato di una scala dei minuti che evidenzia con chiarezza gli intervalli di cinque minuti.
L’orologio è dotato di due corone avvitate (una protezione che consente di garantire l’impermeabilità mediante la compressione di una guarnizione O-ring). La corona del réhaut che permette di calcolare il tempo di immersione è sistemata alle ore 2 per facilitarne l’accesso e l’uso. È monodirezionale, sempre per motivi di sicurezza, con viti a baionetta e protetta da un copri-corona sovradimensionato per garantirne la sicurezza e consentire un’interazione agevole con l’attrezzatura da sub. La seconda corona, che serve alla carica e alla regolazione di ora e data, è posizionata alle ore 4 per limitarne l’ingombro.
L’Oceanographic 4000 è infine dotato di valvola di scarico dell’elio, una caratteristica essenziale di ogni orologio subacqueo in grado di scendere a grandi profondità. La valvola di scarico dell’elio, un elemento di fondamentale importanza quando l’orologio è utilizzato in camera di immersione, consente ai gas che si sono infiltrati nell’orologio in fase di discesa di essere scaricati senza rischi durante la risalita. La valvola montata sull’Oceanographic 4000 è realizzata in acciaio inossidabile, posizionata alle ore 10, visibile sul brancard sinistro dell’orologio.
È fornito con due cinturini (“città” & “sub”) con fibbia ad ardiglione, sia perché l’ardiglione è un sistema più sicuro della fibbia deployante per questo tipo di utilizzo, sia perché è più facile da manipolare e chiudere indossando i guanti. Il design di questa fibbia è originale (l’ardiglione compare infatti raramente nelle abituali collezioni Hublot) e il suo sistema di attacco alla cassa lo è ancora di più, con due pulsantini integrati ad ogni estremità della cassa che consentono di sostituire istantaneamente il bracciale senza dover ricorrere ad un cacciavite o altri attrezzi. Il cinturino “città” è in caucciù nero, la variante “sub”, che abbina caucciù e nylon, è più lungo di un normale cinturino ed è stato progettato per poter essere indossato su una muta da sub di spessore fino a 8 mm.
Serie Limitata a 1000 esemplari per la versione in titanio Numerati da 01/1000 a 1000/1000.
Limitata a 500 esemplari per la versione All Black in fibra di carbonio nera Numerati da 01/500 a 500/500.
Movimento – HUB1401 Movimento meccanico a carica automatica. N. di componenti 180. Rubini 23. Ponti – Satinati, smussati e lucidati. Viti – PVD nero. Bariletto – A molla rinforzata. Scappamento – Spirale Glucydur. Riserva di carica – Circa 42 ore.
Cassa – “King Power”. Diametro 48 mm. Titanio satinato micropallinato o fibra di carbonio opaca. Lunetta – Titanio satinato micropallinato o fibra di carbonio opaca. 6 viti in titanio PVD nero a forma di H. Disco – Anse Resina composita nera. Inserti Laterali – Resina composita nera. Fondello – Titanio satinato micropallinato o titanio satinato micropallinato con PVD nero. Corona – Titanio con inserto in caucciù nero o titanio PVD nero con inserto in caucciù nero. Viti – Titanio PVD nero.
Quadrante – Nero opaco. Indici applicati satinati con SuperLuminova™ verde o nero.
Lancette – Satinate e micropallinate con SuperLuminova™ verde o nero.
Vetro – Zaffiro con trattamento antiriflesso.
Impermeabilità – Certificata a 400 ATM o 4.000 metri. Testato fino a 5.000 metri secondo le norme NIHS.
Cinturini – Fornito con due cinturini – caucciù nero e caucciù e nylon.
Chiusura – Fibbia ad ardiglione in titanio o titanio PVD nero.
Source / Fonte: Hublot
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook
Ladoire Black Widow Mr Green [Limited Edition]
Ladoire Genève introduces “Black Widow”, a collection inspired by the nickname given to the dangerous Lactrodaectus Manctans, a metaphor artfully spun around the theme of spiders, like the famous emblematic web engraved on the GMT ratchet wheels.
Pervaded by a dark, angst-ridden ambience, the Mr Green watch, one of the four models in the collection, writes the first chapter in this murderous saga in which the timepiece, the object of every desire, arouses extreme reactions and engenders irreparable damage.
Lionel Ladoire has created a model with dimensions as daring as those of its predecessor, while featuring a slimmer and smaller case measuring 41.77 mm along the 12-6 o’clock axis and 50.84 mm across the 9-3 o’clock axis. It reflects the characteristic asymmetrical design of Ladoire creations, underscored on this model by the single lug. Distinguished by an elongated profile and taut lines, the ergonomic nature of the timepieces in the Black Widow collection combines wearer comfort with an aggressive character exuding a sophisticated aesthetic appeal.
The deconstruction of time display favoured by Lionel Ladoire is conveyed through a dial with green, red and white accents which, along with the choice of materials and finishes, are the key signature features of the various models in the Black Widow collection.
The dial structure, openworked to reveal the movement, is multilayered and delineates three regulator-type offset Hours, Minutes and Seconds zones with patented display complication (HMS Planetary®) mounted on a ceramic micro ball bearings. Moreover, the watches in the Black Widow collections also feature a GMT function with a central hand adjusted via a fastaction pushpiece at 2 o’clock.
Crafted in harmony with the rigorous criteria governing fine leather workmanship, the strap used in the Black Widow collection is made from a single piece of full-grain, hand-sewn matt leather or alligator leather, secured by a hand-made Ladoire Helvet Manufacture pin buckle.
Movement – Ladoire Manufacture-made movement Calvet/o2. Movement with automatic winding via a micro rotor. Jewelling – 38 jewels. Thickness – 10.95 mm. Shaped mainplate (39.50mm x 29.50mm). W-shaped GMT bridge structure, 12-hour dual time-zone display. Balance with screws, black PVD-coated. Optimised gear-train toothing profile. Frequency 18,800 vph (2.5 Hz). 52-hour power reserve
Functions – Regulator: Offset hours, minutes and seconds with patented display complication (HMS Planetary ®), divided into three zones with fixed indicator mounted on ceramic micro ball bearings. GMT 12-hour display with fast-adjustment push-button system.
Case – Two-part asymmetrical dial: 9 – 3 o’clock: 50.84 mm/12 – 6 o’clock: 41.77 mm. Bezel, case middle and case-back in titanium. Black case with A-DLC type PVD coating. Black crown with A-DLC type PVD coating: ergonomically positioned at 8 o’clock. Black titanium pusher with A-DLC type PVD coating, positioned at 2 o’clock. Cambered, glareproofed sapphire crystal. Flat glareproofed sapphire crystal case-back. Water-resistant to 50 metres.
Strap – Full-grain smooth leather with double hand stitching. Pin buckle with A-DLC type PVD coating. Ergonomic strap secured by a single asymmetrical lug.
Source: Ladoire
Fonte: Luxury & Fine Timepieces – Facebook






















